Party in the VAJAYJAY
5.13c YDS 8a+ French 30 Ewbanks X- UIAA 31 ZA E7 7a British
Avg: 3 from 4 votes
Type: | Sport, 80 ft (24 m) |
FA: | Kevin Wilkinson |
Page Views: | 2,289 total · 23/month |
Shared By: | Luke Bertelsen on Oct 2, 2016 |
Admins: | Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson |
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Access Issue: RAPTOR CLOSURES: MOBY DICK AREA & NO NEW ROUTE DEVELOPMENT
Details
RAPTOR CLOSURE: During recent raptor monitoring, an active raptor nest was discovered, prompting a voluntary closure of the Moby Dick climbing area off Forest System Road 18. The named routes and walls affected are Dough Boy, Queequeg’s Coffin, Cetology Wall and Edge of Starbuck. The area is closed immediately through August 15. The nest site will continue to be monitored through the summer. If you have questions, please contact Bonnie Allison, south zone wildlife biologist, at 307-684-7806 or bonnie.allison@usda.gov.
No new route development is allowed until further notice. On July 19, 2019, the US Forest Service issued a notice that it would no longer allow the installation of new bolts or the creation of new climbing routes after manufactured routes were established, then subsequently removed/altered by climbers. In addition, the bolts/fixed anchors on an estimated 50 climbs at Ten Sleep have been affected in some manner that may or may not make them unsafe to climb. The list of altered routes can be found in a drop down on the main, "Ten Sleep Canyon" homepage. The US Forest Service, Powder River Ranger District, is actively working with the local LCO, the Bighorn Climbers' Coalition and Access Fund to develop a sustainable framework for route standards and a Climbing Management Plan for the canyon's future.
No new route development is allowed until further notice. On July 19, 2019, the US Forest Service issued a notice that it would no longer allow the installation of new bolts or the creation of new climbing routes after manufactured routes were established, then subsequently removed/altered by climbers. In addition, the bolts/fixed anchors on an estimated 50 climbs at Ten Sleep have been affected in some manner that may or may not make them unsafe to climb. The list of altered routes can be found in a drop down on the main, "Ten Sleep Canyon" homepage. The US Forest Service, Powder River Ranger District, is actively working with the local LCO, the Bighorn Climbers' Coalition and Access Fund to develop a sustainable framework for route standards and a Climbing Management Plan for the canyon's future.
Description
What a ride! It hardly gets better than this. Big moves with good holds at the start will prepare you as this climb gets harder the higher you go. You will know when you get to the first of two long moves as you are staring down a massive reach to a left hand pocket. Manage this span and your very next move is even longer. Use your right hand, grab some non-holds, paste a right foot high........pray?, and huck for a hand swallowing pocket.
Is it over?
No such luck. This is where you get to fall repeatedly thinking you have already done the hardest moves on the route. Navigate small holds and high feet, get a right kneebar, and dispatch the final 20 feet of 5.12.
Clip the anchors. Take in the view of the Bighorn Range off to your right and you can end your day happy knowing that Tensleep climbing doesn't get much better than this.
SHIT DAMN!
Is it over?
No such luck. This is where you get to fall repeatedly thinking you have already done the hardest moves on the route. Navigate small holds and high feet, get a right kneebar, and dispatch the final 20 feet of 5.12.
Clip the anchors. Take in the view of the Bighorn Range off to your right and you can end your day happy knowing that Tensleep climbing doesn't get much better than this.
SHIT DAMN!
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