Flying Saucers

The history of this route mimics the history of Tahoe rock climbing style and ethics since the 1980's. Then, California was transitioning from strict Yosemite "ground-up" ethics to the Euro "top down", rap-bolted, "hang-dog" style. In 1988, "Ajax" was climbed ground up, placing a pin at the crux on lead. At that time, the FA spotted the "Flying Saucers" line. During the (top-down) cleaning of Flying Saucers a number of flakes came off, hence the name. The F.A. felt that one should use as much natural protection as possible and only bolt as absolutely necessary. It was anathema to him to just place a bolt every 5 feet. The F.A was done with three bolts and supplemental gear as described in Mike Carville's 1991 "Tahoe Rock" guide. It was later on-sighted by Carville, Brian Biega, Bill Sinoff, Jimmy Haden and others. The delicate final 25' was protected by micro brass nuts.

Within a few years, local consensus led to three more bolts being added by the F.A, for a total of 6, to make it more accessible and appealing to "everyone".

Over time, unknown climbers have added 5 more bolts, for a total of eleven (now reduced to 10)!!

While I (the F.A.) think that bolting should be safely done, I feel that there is a place for climbs that challenge us in terms of our mind-set and rock-craft. Also completely disagree with climbers adding bolts/altering a route that had already been envisioned and climbed by someone else. That said, it is a great route, enjoy!

Thirty feet right of "Ajax", starts on a large ledge

Bolted with two sets of anchors on top.