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Routes in Right Side

Ajax T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Birdie S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Black September T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Centerfold T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Centex T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Finger Licker T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Finger Licker Left TR 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Firecracker T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Full Moon T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a PG13
Full Tilt T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Future Games T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Headstone T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
High Energy T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Indian Summer T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Inside Out T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Labyrinth T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Lightning Bolt Roof T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Mojito Run T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Mr. Clean T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
New Fascination T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
New Moon T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Next T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
No Stems No Seeds T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
On Ramp T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rat Ramp S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rated X T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sky Pilot T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Slipstream T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Space Modulator T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Summer Breeze S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Super Slab T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Torture Chamber S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Yellow Zonker T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: 70s
Page Views: 1,350 total · 18/month
Shared By: V.X. on Jul 6, 2012
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Black Wall seasonal raptor closures Details
Access Issue: Donner/Truckee area Details

Description

Walk past "Slipstream" to the "Full Tilt" ledges. This is the left chimney of the huge detached tooth that forms "Full Tilt". Climb up a short easy corner to the top of a flake. Stand on top of the flake and burrow into the secure chimney. There is a cool cave behind the tooth. Climb to the top of the tooth and back out on the face to a chain anchor. Belay here and toprope "Full Tilt" or continue up a thin crack with incipient pro to ledges and more climbs.

This climb has pitches below and above which are dirty and less traveled.

Protection

A few cams. The squeeze section is secure but unprotectable.

Photos

Willoughby
  5.8
Willoughby  
  5.8
The other pitches are totally fun and worthy, but they do need some more traffic to help clean them up, especially the first pitch chimney. But it'd be a classic if more people got on it (and the chimney didn't scare folks away). That first pitch is probably 5.8 if I remember right. It's been a while since I could convince anybody to climb it with me! Sep 3, 2013
TomC  
Tried to take the right-side approach up the messy dihedral/gully (Porno book) as described in Jacksons' North Tahoe guide. I wouldn't recommend this, very dirty and confusing where to break off back left.
Anyone have more beta on the left-side ramp approach? Rope or no? Easy 5th class?
I'm also interested in trying the full climb, but not sure where the 2nd pitch crosses the runout slab - seems like there is a lower right wider crack full of plants, and an upper left thin crack, anyone know which to follow? Jun 23, 2015
The climb as shown in Reid is 3 pitches. I climbed it in 4 pitches today, a solid adventure. There was no indication that P1-P3 had ever been climbed before...

P1 would be pretty great if it was cleaned.

We took a rack to 4 inches.

P1: 5.8 climb up the wide chimney. This thing is so full of moss cleaning it would involve goggles, respirator, and wire brush. It was bone dry when I did it though, so maybe it seeps on the spring. The moves to gain the ledge below the chimney are poorly protected, but the chimney is well protected. Be gentle with the huge block sitting at the base of the chimney; it moves.

P2: 5.7 climb the face straight up above the chimney using various cracks. At the top traverse left until you see a really nice hand crack, climb it and belay at the top. The Reid guide shows the route going up the face to the right of the hand crack, I think this is wrong but maybe it's not as unprotected as it looks.

P3: 5.8 traverse right until you get to the thin crack (not the grassy one mentioned above). Bring your C3's; I used my nut tool to dig out a bomber red C3 placement half way up, and there's probably more spots for smaller gear. Follow the crack to the end (maybe 5.6R, unless you dig out more gear) then continue scrambling up aiming for the white block. The Reid guide shows you leaving the crack half way up and face climbing; I think this is wrong.

P4: 5.6 the current MP description.

From the top of P4 you can do one rappel and hike down the ramp to skiers right. Oct 15, 2017

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