Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 757 total · 9/month
Shared By: Lurker on Mar 10, 2012
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


6 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Black Wall seasonal raptor closures Details
Access Issue: Donner/Truckee area Details

Description

Awesome route (when it's clean). Bouldery start, to right-ward traverse, past a fixed pin, finish on stellar left-leaning hand crack. Doesn't get much traffic, and might be pretty dirty. Ajax (5.11d?) is the splitter thin crack that heads straight up after the fixed pin.

Location

Stranded in the middle of Black Wall, with a couple of other obscure but good routes. Between "One Hand Clapping" area and "Black September" area.

Protection

Gear to 2", chain anchors.

Photos

Patrick Mulligan
Reno, NV
 
Patrick Mulligan   Reno, NV
 
This is as clean as I've ever seen it. I've never gotten on this because its normally filled with moss and munge. It was obvious that someone had done some cleaning, and I did much more - gardening out spots for nuts, etc. This is as good as it gets, with more traffic this thing would be perfect and lose the grit that has built up. Go get it, its a good one that packs a punch.

I'd bring a lot of finger (.3-.75 BD)sized gear and a full rack of nuts. I placed almost all finger sized gear and nuts, save one #2 camalot to protect the final mantle to the chains. Jun 14, 2013
Patrick Mulligan
Reno, NV
 
Patrick Mulligan   Reno, NV
 
This one is much harder in the heat as the black rock remains warm and slick even after the route goes into the shade. Feb 4, 2014