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Routes in Y Crag
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Alabama Getaway S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Be Here Now S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Big Lyme S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Dirk Wiggler S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Foux Du Fafa S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Full Wallberg, The T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Hoagies and Grinders S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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I'm a Star S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Meatloaf Sandwich S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Navy Beans Navy Beans S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Ne’er-do-wells, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Noogie Bights S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Please to Meet Ya... Lunch Lady S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Pourquoi S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Roller Girl S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Sloppy Joe Slop-Sloppy Joe S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Thick Air S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Where No One Goes S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Where's the Crack? T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Why Crack? T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Why Not? T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Woodsman, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
| Type: | Sport |
| GPS: | 43.99198, -71.65619 |
| FA: | Kayte Knower, June 11 2023 |
| Page Views: | 295 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Kayte Knower on Jun 12, 2023 |
| Admins: | Jay Knower, M Sprague, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall |
Description
A very interesting boulder problem guards the start of this technical and super fun arete. Stick clip. Start on the little kicker slab (the moss is there specifically to divert the water after a rain so don’t rip it off). Figure out how to get yourself over the steepness to an obvious ledge-jug. I heel hooked, and did a sort of twisting sit up over the heel - really fun move despite how out sounds.
Rest as long as you like and then enjoy lovely rock - pinches, water grooves and small, positive feet - past four bolts to a not-for-nothing top out.
Interested to see how taller folks do it. No idea how to grade it since the crux is so much harder than the rest and it seems like someone really tall might just jump past the whole thing. We will see. Pretty sure it’s neither 5.11 nor 5.13.
I loved the experience of figuring this route out. It has a feeling of complexity and length to it, is in the sun before the trees leaf out and then is shady and relatively breezy <3
Location
Right side of the main center wall, right of the trad routes.
LEAVE THE MOSS! IT KEEPS THE FEET YOU NEED DRY. (I’m serious; I kept the moss around the key feet because it diverts the water and this FA went up after a week of rain so it actually worked. So New England.)
If you are facing the rock, facing the three trad lines, the rightmost of which is “Where’s the Crack?”, this is the arete to your right, just around the corner. An undercut boulder problem start above a short slab, then a vertical arete.
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