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Elevation: 1,849 ft 564 m
GPS: 43.99655, -71.65284
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 1,287 total · 37/month
Shared By: Jay Knower on Apr 21, 2023
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall
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Description Suggest change

There are a number of worthwhile crags in the woods situated between Merriam Woods and Russell Pond, and accessible off Tripoli Road. These crags are generally composed of excellent schist. While not as dramatic or concentrated as the cliffs at Merriam Woods, these crags offer at least a day's worth of fun climbing, in a forested and peaceful setting, with routes ranging from 5.5 to 5.12+.

Getting There Suggest change

Exactly one mile east of the west gate on Tripoli Road, there's a "Be Bear Aware" sign on the north side of the road. Park there. Hike uphill (north) from the sign to access all the climbing. Hikes range from 5-15 minutes depending on the crag, with Schist Creek being the first crag you come to.

41 Total Climbs

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Location: Russell Forest Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Russell Forest

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 19
● Prestidigitator
Sport
Schist Creek
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 19
● Junk Show
Sport
Schist Creek
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 20
● Katsune
Sport
Schist Creek
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 17
● The Crows Have Eyes
Sport
Schist Creek
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 19
● Thick Air
Sport
Y Crag
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 36
● Meatloaf Sandwich
Sport
Y Crag
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 28
● Pourquoi
Sport
Y Crag
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 20
● Pusheen
Sport
Schist Creek
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 18
● Foux Du Fafa
Sport
Y Crag
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 32
● Navy Beans Navy Beans
Sport
Y Crag
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 15
● Alabama Getaway
Sport
Y Crag
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 15
● Roller Girl
Sport
Y Crag
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 27
● Hoagies and Grinders
Sport
Y Crag
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 7
● The Ne’er-do-wells
Sport
Y Crag
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 13
● Dirk Wiggler
Sport
Y Crag
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
● Prestidigitator Schist Creek
 19
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Sport
● Junk Show Schist Creek
 19
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Sport
● Katsune Schist Creek
 20
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
● The Crows Have Eyes Schist Creek
 17
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
● Thick Air Y Crag
 19
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
● Meatloaf Sandwich Y Crag
 36
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
● Pourquoi Y Crag
 28
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
● Pusheen Schist Creek
 20
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
● Foux Du Fafa Y Crag
 18
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Sport
● Navy Beans Navy Beans Y Crag
 32
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
● Alabama Getaway Y Crag
 15
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
● Roller Girl Y Crag
 15
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
● Hoagies and Grinders Y Crag
 27
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
● The Ne’er-do-wells Y Crag
 7
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
● Dirk Wiggler Y Crag
 13
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Russell Forest »

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Mike Gagnon on the second ascent
Mike Gagnon on the second ascent
 1
FA of Rollergirl
FA of Rollergirl
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