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Elevation: 1,320 ft 402 m
GPS: 43.99105, -71.65451
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 568 total · 28/month
Shared By: Jay Knower on Apr 21, 2023 · Updates
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall
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Description Suggest change

Perhaps one of the best moderate cliffs around, Schist Creek offers enjoyable routes on excellent rock. The setting is peaceful, and the crags are not too tall (but tall enough), so this will be a great teaching/learning spot. Most routes follow defined features up less than vertical walls.

This cliff is also a serviceable alternative to the Forest Garden/Roadhouse at Merriam Woods if you find that area too crowded.

Getting There Suggest change

Park at the Be Bear Aware sign, one mile east of the west entrance on Tripoli Road. Hike uphill (north) to the crag. 5-10 minutes.

The trail will take you to the leftmost buttress, which includes Eew David, Fold it In, and the Crows Have Eyes. To reach the central wall, skirt climber's right under a massive downed tree and traverse dirty slabs for about 1 minute until you can reach a nice open wall. This includes Katsune, Pusheen, Junk Show, and Prestidigitator. Warmest Regards is farther right still, on a short, steep wall. 

8 Total Climbs

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Location: Schist Creek Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Schist Creek

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 14
● Prestidigitator
Sport
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 14
● Junk Show
Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 15
● Katsune
Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 14
● The Crows Have Eyes
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 12
● Fold It In
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 12
● Eeew, David
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 15
● Pusheen
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 8
● Warmest Regards
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
● Prestidigitator
 14
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Sport
● Junk Show
 14
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Sport
● Katsune
 15
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
● The Crows Have Eyes
 14
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
● Fold It In
 12
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
● Eeew, David
 12
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
● Pusheen
 15
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
● Warmest Regards
 8
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Schist Creek »

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Photos

Back of the napkin topo for the area.
Back of the napkin topo for the area.
 1
Here are the three left-most routes at Schist Creek Eww David 5.9, Fold it in 5.8 and The Crows have Eyes 5.7. From this buttress walk to the right to find the rest of the crag.
Here are the three left-most routes at Schist C…
 0
Left Crag of Schist Creek -Ralph Explores the upper section of "Fold It In" (start is 10ft lower) with Eeew David in the corner to his left.He is standing on a wide dirt-rock ledge about 10ft above the trail. Crows Have Eyes is out-of-photo to the right.
Left Crag of Schist Creek -Ralph Explores the u…
 0
To clear up some confusion: the trail takes you to the leftmost buttress of Schist Creek, which includes Eew David, Fold it In, and The Crows Have Eyes. To reach the central wall (with Katsune, etc), skirt under this downed tree and head climber's right.
To clear up some confusion: the trail takes you…
 0

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