Cockroach Beach

Rarely done, rarely talked about, but rarely should it be missed! The views of the stalactites along the second pitch are wonderful, and the climbing is just as good as you'd hope. 

P1. 5.8-11b. Climb any one of the 6 approach pitches to access the starting anchor. The easiest is to start as per Cross Eyed, and at the pillar, just keep traversing left, clipping several bolts along the way. I preferred climbing either of the more direct pitches. 

P2. 5.11a. Head up a dihedral with some cracks. There is some loose-ish rock here, but one would need to be pretty bonkers to dislodge any of it. Move right, then pull a super juggy roof protected by slings. Then follow a hidden arete. Some of the holds through here have a bit of that black coating, but I'd hardly call it dirty... just the price for getting to climb in such a stalactite cathedral. The crux is just after traversing left out from under the roof (sling bolt). This pitch is listed as 11c in the book, but I've done it a few times and think 10d or 11a is fair. 

P3. 5.11a. Continue up a beautiful dihedral formed by the merged stalactite. Crux is the very end, right when you're a tad spaced above your last clip. If you were to instead fork left from the belay onto the beautiful overhung face, that is S.O.S. 

P4. Do not climb. Super old rusty expansion bolts leading to the very top of the wall. Likely worth a rebolt.

Look for a lone anchor way out left from the main area, across a sloping ledge. Make your way to that anchor anyhow you like.