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Routes in Melting Wall

Affenhitze S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bon Soir S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Captain Hook S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Climb of the Ancient Mariner S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cross Eyed S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Melting Pot S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Right Hand of Buddha S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Smoking Room, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Tom Cecil & Chris Carr (1/96)
Page Views: 178 total, 4/month
Shared By: Nate Ball on Feb 8, 2014
Admins: Brian Boyd, Nate Ball

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Warning Stainless-steel bolts are suspect near the coast. A rebolting effort is underway. Details

Description

Climb to a high first bolt, then up the groove through the middle of the buttress. Stem back and forth through cool features to an awkward sidestep to the right at the top. There is an anchor here, but the climbing gets even better above. Pull through some overhanging moves on delicate stalactites until you can reach the bigger stalactite behind you. Climb this to the cave above and lower from a thread anchor.

There is a second pitch that goes at 7a that is protected by titanium bolts.

Location

Below the obvious melting feature of this wall

Protection

Steel glue-ins down low, titanium bolts up high

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