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> Melting Wall
Climb of the Ancient Mariner
5.10- YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 2.6 from 18
votes
Routes in Melting Wall
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Affenhitze S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Bon Soir S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Captain Hook S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Climb of the Ancient Mariner S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Climb of the Ancient Mariner (extension) S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Cockroach Beach S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Cross Eyed S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Doing The Bolts S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Melting Pot S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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No Name S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Northern Bird S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Orange Peel S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Orange Shot Chimney S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Right Hand of Buddha S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Smoking Room, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Sport, 90 ft (27 m) |
| FA: | Tom Cecil & Chris Carr (1/96) |
| Page Views: | 903 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Nate Ball on Feb 8, 2014 |
| Admins: | Brian Boyd, Tao Techakanon |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Warning! Stainless steel bolts are suspect near the coast!
Details
You can read about the warning here. There is extensive rebolting being done by the Thaitanium Project, which has already rebolted the vast majority of popular routes in the main areas. Be informed!
Description
Climb to a high first bolt, then up the groove through the middle of the buttress. Stem back and forth through cool features to an awkward sidestep to the right at the top. There is an anchor here, but the climbing gets even better above. Pull through some overhanging moves on delicate stalactites until you can reach the bigger stalactite behind you. Climb this to the cave above and lower from a thread anchor.
There is a second pitch that goes at 7a that is protected by titanium bolts.
There is a second pitch that goes at 7a that is protected by titanium bolts.
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