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Routes in Melting Wall

Affenhitze S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bon Soir S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Captain Hook S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Climb of the Ancient Mariner S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cross Eyed S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Melting Pot S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Right Hand of Buddha S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Smoking Room, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: S. Lightner, G. Collum, Jan 1996
Page Views: 223 total, 2/month
Shared By: Tony B on Dec 28, 2006
Admins: Brian Boyd, Nate Ball

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6 Opinions

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Warning Stainless-steel bolts are suspect near the coast. A rebolting effort is underway. Details

Description

A good route, but not very long. While the Schmitz/Changrua book refers to this line as tricky, I did not experience any moment of trickery. I did however, get quite pumped. Perhaps the trick lies in not getting pumped?
Climb up the face just right of the tunnel on the trail and then move left under a bulge to climb up and left toward a good stalactite on the left. The crux is a hard section with less positive holds up high after you get pumped.

Location

As you reach the Melting Wall via through the arch from Fire Wall, turn around and look on it's right side. The bolted line starting just to it's right and finishing above the path is Bonsoir.

Protection

4 bolts to a bolted anchor.

Photos

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Ryan Williams
London (sort of)
  5.11+
Ryan Williams   London (sort of)  
  5.11+
For once I agree w/ Wee and Elke... I thought this route was more "tricky" than pumpy. It is quite sustained though, at least for the first 40 feet. I thought the crux involved getting the sequence right. Oct 31, 2011