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> Melting Wall
Bon Soir
5.11d YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 3 from 11
votes
Routes in Melting Wall
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Affenhitze S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Bon Soir S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Captain Hook S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Climb of the Ancient Mariner S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Climb of the Ancient Mariner (extension) S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Cockroach Beach S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Cross Eyed S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Doing The Bolts S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Melting Pot S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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No Name S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Northern Bird S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Orange Peel S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Orange Shot Chimney S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Right Hand of Buddha S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Smoking Room, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Sport, 50 ft (15 m) |
| FA: | S. Lightner, G. Collum, Jan 1996 |
| Page Views: | 775 total · 4/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on Dec 28, 2006 |
| Admins: | Brian Boyd, Tao Techakanon |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Warning! Stainless steel bolts are suspect near the coast!
Details
You can read about the warning here. There is extensive rebolting being done by the Thaitanium Project, which has already rebolted the vast majority of popular routes in the main areas. Be informed!
Description
A good route, but not very long. While the Schmitz/Changrua book refers to this line as tricky, I did not experience any moment of trickery. I did however, get quite pumped. Perhaps the trick lies in not getting pumped?
Climb up the face just right of the tunnel on the trail and then move left under a bulge to climb up and left toward a good stalactite on the left. The crux is a hard section with less positive holds up high after you get pumped.
Climb up the face just right of the tunnel on the trail and then move left under a bulge to climb up and left toward a good stalactite on the left. The crux is a hard section with less positive holds up high after you get pumped.
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