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Routes in Melting Wall

Affenhitze S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bon Soir S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Captain Hook S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Climb of the Ancient Mariner S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cross Eyed S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Melting Pot S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Right Hand of Buddha S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Smoking Room, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
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Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: M. Hoffmann, M. Huber
Page Views: 57 total · 4/month
Shared By: Ol Toby on Jul 31, 2017
Admins: Brian Boyd, Nate Ball

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Access Issue: Warning! Stainless steel bolts are suspect near the coast! Details

Description

Quality enduro pumpfest through the middle of the steep wall. Highly recommended!

Affenhitze begins on the slabby start and vertical tufa shared with Cross Eyed. A long reach from the top of the tufa towards the two big "eyes" starts the difficulties for both routes. Here, Affenhitze heads right while Cross Eyed moves left.

Especially if linking the entry slab into the steep wall, make sure to clip the bolt between and just below the two "eyes" with a long sling or rope drag will absolutely hose you on the steep section above.

A cool boulder problem out of the "eyes" leads to the right and around the arete. A few slabby moves then give way to a sequence with likely the hardest single moves before a full-recovery rest in the pod below the steepness.

From the pod, hero moves trend straight up the cave on positive but ever-worsening holds. Clipping the anchors also requires finding the right holds to clip from to avoid taking the whip.

Location

Begins on the slab directly left of the pillar housing the easier routes at the wall.

Protection

Titanium.

Photos

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