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Affenhitze
5.12- YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 4 from 4 votes
Type: | Sport, 100 ft (30 m) |
FA: | M. Hoffmann, M. Huber |
Page Views: | 692 total · 8/month |
Shared By: | Ol Toby on Jul 31, 2017 |
Admins: | Brian Boyd, Tao Techakanon |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Warning! Stainless steel bolts are suspect near the coast!
Details
You can read about the warning here. There is extensive rebolting being done by the Thaitanium Project, which has already rebolted the vast majority of popular routes in the main areas. Be informed!
Description
Quality enduro pumpfest through the middle of the steep wall. Highly recommended!
Affenhitze begins on the slabby start and vertical tufa shared with Cross Eyed. A long reach from the top of the tufa towards the two big "eyes" starts the difficulties for both routes. Here, Affenhitze heads right while Cross Eyed moves left.
Especially if linking the entry slab into the steep wall, make sure to clip the bolt between and just below the two "eyes" with a long sling or rope drag will absolutely hose you on the steep section above.
A cool boulder problem out of the "eyes" leads to the right and around the arete. A few slabby moves then give way to a sequence with likely the hardest single moves before a full-recovery rest in the pod below the steepness.
From the pod hero moves bust straight up the cave on positive but ever-worsening holds to the anchor. Steep pumpy goodness!
Affenhitze begins on the slabby start and vertical tufa shared with Cross Eyed. A long reach from the top of the tufa towards the two big "eyes" starts the difficulties for both routes. Here, Affenhitze heads right while Cross Eyed moves left.
Especially if linking the entry slab into the steep wall, make sure to clip the bolt between and just below the two "eyes" with a long sling or rope drag will absolutely hose you on the steep section above.
A cool boulder problem out of the "eyes" leads to the right and around the arete. A few slabby moves then give way to a sequence with likely the hardest single moves before a full-recovery rest in the pod below the steepness.
From the pod hero moves bust straight up the cave on positive but ever-worsening holds to the anchor. Steep pumpy goodness!
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