All Locations > International > Asia > Thailand > S - Islands & B… > Laem Phra Nang… > Tonsai Bay > Melting Wall

Affenhitze

Name: Affenhitze
Rating: 4.0

5.12- YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British

Routes in Melting Wall

L › R R › L A › Z

	Affenhitze S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Blank Overhang T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Bon Soir S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Captain Hook S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Climb of the Ancient Mariner S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Climb of the Ancient Mariner (extension) S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Cockroach Beach S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Cross Eyed S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Doing The Bolts S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Melting Pot S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	No Name S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Northern Bird S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Northern Crack S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Orange Peel S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Orange Shot Chimney S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Right Hand of Buddha S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Smoking Room, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

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Type:	Sport, 100 ft (30 m)
GPS:	8.01684, 98.83026
FA:	M. Hoffmann, M. Huber
Page Views:	768 total · 7/month
Shared By:	Ol Toby on Jul 31, 2017
Admins:	Brian Boyd, Tao Techakanon Page Updates (admin only)

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Explore this route in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Access Issue: Warning! Stainless steel bolts are suspect near the coast! Details

You can read about the warning here. There is extensive rebolting being done by the Thaitanium Project, which has already rebolted the vast majority of popular routes in the main areas. Be informed!

Description

Quality enduro pumpfest through the middle of the steep wall. Highly recommended!

Affenhitze begins on the slabby start and vertical tufa shared with Cross Eyed. A long reach from the top of the tufa towards the two big "eyes" starts the difficulties for both routes. Here, Affenhitze heads right while Cross Eyed moves left.

Especially if linking the entry slab into the steep wall, make sure to clip the bolt between and just below the two "eyes" with a long sling or rope drag will absolutely hose you on the steep section above.

A cool boulder problem out of the "eyes" leads to the right and around the arete. A few slabby moves then give way to a sequence with likely the hardest single moves before a full-recovery rest in the pod below the steepness.

From the pod hero moves bust straight up the cave on positive but ever-worsening holds to the anchor. Steep pumpy goodness!