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Routes in Melting Wall

Affenhitze S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bon Soir S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Captain Hook S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Climb of the Ancient Mariner S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cross Eyed S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Melting Pot S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Right Hand of Buddha S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Smoking Room, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 85 ft
FA: G. Collum, C. Carr, Jan 1996
Page Views: 1,583 total, 12/month
Shared By: Tony B on Dec 28, 2006
Admins: Brian Boyd, Nate Ball

You & This Route


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Warning Stainless-steel bolts are suspect near the coast. A rebolting effort is underway. Details

Description

Of the few dozen routes I did, this one was my favorite route in the Railey/Ton Sai area. It is a long route with the crux a few bolts from the top and a big pump factor. Nice stems to a stalactite up top stop the pump clock after the small holds-crux a bolt or two before reaching the anchor.

Location

Go left from the “hole” in from the path from the Fire Wall that enters to the Melting Wall. Go left past 4 short low-angle routes and up onto a ledge at the base of the wall, then left past a single bolted line, “Affenhitze.” The next route left, and 3rd from the left end of the wall is “Cross Eyed.” The route climbs up and left through continuously steep rock to a bolted anchor below a set of huge stalactites. I recall that a long rope was required to get off of this route, as the top lowers off to low ground below the base of the route.

Protection

A dozen draws or more and a 60m rope to get down from the anchors up top.

Photos

twellman
Cambridge
  5.12b
twellman   Cambridge
  5.12b
An epic climb. Working hard from the bottom to the rest at mid-height, then the pumpathon to the top begins. The current anchor placement requires you to pull the last hard moves after the slopey jugs, and this may be the overall crux if you are sufficiently pumped (I was). Feb 26, 2017
Ryan Williams
London (sort of)
  5.12-
Ryan Williams   London (sort of)  
  5.12-
"There is a God, and obviously he is a climber." - Sam Lightner Jr.

This is probably one of the single best pitches on Laem Phra Nang. If you clip the chains from the slopey jugs below the rings, you didn't finish! I already moved the anchor back to it's original height once but I think someone's lowered it again. Don't cheat yourself! Feb 28, 2011