Waiting for Thelma

The three steep pitches in the middle of Waiting for Thelma were the most exciting and fun pitches we climbed on Chambe. While the other routes are all off-vertical slab climbing (still fun!), pitches 5-8 on this route are steep, exposed, and full of great movement.

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Pitches 1-4: The first 4 slabby pitches have been stripped of hangers by locals -- we couldn't find the bolt line at all. As such, we soloed up to the base of the orange headwall; the three main pitches of the route go through the prominent right-facing dihedral splitting the orange headwall. Aim for the dihedral and you'll end up in the right spot. The soloing is no no harder than 5.5 or 5.6 -- and there are probably easier routes to be taken -- but it is friction climbing and can be insecure. It is probably possible to protect these slabby pitches by slinging vellozia bushes...

Pitch 5: Belay on a block at the base the steep corner in the headwall. Follow the ine of bolts up a short slab befor joining the dihedral. Belay on a chockstone. (5.10-)

Pitch 6: Follow the corner with some tricky moves just before a big ledge. Belay here. (5.11-)

Pitch 7: Lovely squeeze chimney with a layback crux. (5.10)                                       

Pitches 8-10: More easy slab climbing similar to the opening pitches. Easy and probably not worth it. Recommended to just rap from the top of pitch 7.

Descent: Rap with two 50-meter ropes.

The furthest left route on the lower west face of Chambe.