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West Face Direct
5.11 YDS 6c+ French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E4 5c British A1 R
Avg: 2 from 1
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Routes in Mulanje Massif
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Chambe East Face: SE Butress T A0 |
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Fire on the Mountain S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b A0 |
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In the Memory of Antoine S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b A0-1 |
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Initiation, The S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Kuche Kuche S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Mvula S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Passion And Pain S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Raven S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Waiting for Thelma S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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West Face Direct T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c A1 R |
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Witness and George S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R |
| Type: | Trad, Aid, 5650 ft (1712 m), Grade VI |
| FA: | Frank Eastwood and Ian Howell, Aug 1977 3 days 1.5 hours. First one-day ascent Alard Hufner and Mark Seuring, Aug 1998 |
| Page Views: | 84 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Ed Nhlane on Feb 19, 2024 |
| Admins: | Gunkswest |
Description
Route is divided into two parts: the lower 600m V, A1 slab and the upper 650m VI , A1 to the peak of Chambe, 32 pitches. The two walls are separated by a 450m football filed-size shelf where a bivouac can be made. Most of the climbing on the lower slabs involves placing slings over grass tufts, vellozia and trees while on the upper wall it involves runouts and strenuous chimney style up a major fault line and tricky placements of protection, and tree-belay stations.
The crux is 3-4 pitches along main crack system that lead to a good bivouac below a steepening chimney and later reach a major overhang.
Descent: By Chambe East Ridge hiking route
Location
Approach Slab: The start proper is reached scrambling up either of twin intrusions of darker rock which are 3m apart and resemble staircases
Main Wall: Start approximately 8m to the left of a staircase of darker rock. 30m above and just to your right, is a white wall with steep overhanging lip on left.
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