All Locations > International > Africa > Malawi > Mulanje Massif

Raven

Name: Raven
Rating: 2.8

5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British

Routes in Mulanje Massif

L › R R › L A › Z

	Chambe East Face: SE Butress T A0
	Fire on the Mountain S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b A0
	In the Memory of Antoine S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b A0-1
	Initiation, The S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Kuche Kuche S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Mvula S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
	Passion And Pain S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Raven S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Waiting for Thelma S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	West Face Direct T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c A1 R
	Witness and George S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R

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Type:	Sport, 275 ft (83 m), 3 pitches
FA:	Justin Lawson and James Garrett, 26 April 2022
Page Views:	416 total · 14/month
Shared By:	James Garrett on Apr 30, 2022 · Updates
Admins:	Gunkswest Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

We hiked up to base of the Chambe Face intent on climbing Passion And Pain, but found it dripping with water. We equipped this instead. Named after the “flocks” of beautiful white dotted neck ravens soaring above. Two 60m ropes need for abseils (P1-P3 can be climbed with a single 60m rope).

Pitch#1: Short easy slabbing on excellent grippy granite to a two bolt belay. 5.5, 25m, 7 bolts.

Pitch #2: Continue straight up nicely featured steeper rock with fun movement to a two bolt belay. 5.7, 30m, 6 bolts.

Pitch #3: “The Headwall”, trend a bit right following bolts to a two bolt belay. 5.8, 30m, 11 bolts. Climb up 3-4m above the two bolt belay to a huge ledge belay for P4.

Pitch #4: Long and sparsely bolted at the moment, however, so to be in keeping with the character of the route would need some more bolts! The rock on this pitch is very coarse and featured so friction works really well up to a two bolt belay; holds wont break. 5.8+ , 60m, 4 bolts.

Pitch #5: Just like P4, this pitch is long and sparsely bolted (expect some 15-20m runouts) but many of the holds could still come off. It definitely requires more cleaning. This pitch joins Passion and Pain at the end. 5.8, 60m, 4 bolts.

Rappel the route or rappel over to P&P and rappel down from there.