Type: Trad, Aid, 1800 ft, Grade IV
FA: Frank Eastwood and Julie Sutton 1979
Page Views: 306 total · 4/month
Shared By: John Bradford on Jul 14, 2013

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One point of aid on the climb. 10 hours to the summit ridge.
From the bivi site look for the start at below a long near horizontal overhang.
1) Tufted slabs, following the line of least resistance. Bear right to reach the overhang 15 Meters from its upper right corner. 110M grade 2-3
2) Move right into the corner and ascend via an old aid bolt to the upper gully.
3) Stay right in the gully ascending slabs for 110M grade 2-3. Obtain the major fault that splits the wall of the butress
4) First steep pitch up the buttress. A thin crack. 40M Finish at an old bolt belay.
5) Crux moves through 12 M of a widening fault with old bolts.
6) Continue up the same crack/chimney system for another 250M grade 3-5.


From the circular forest road follow a track through the pines towards the crag. Frank Eastwood's guide to the Mulanje Massif is still available and has much more detailed information. A search turned up 4 used copies on Amazon for about 40 dollars.


Be aware that climbs on the massif are rarely done, and repeats are few and far between. Do not trust any fixed gear. Expect long runouts. This information is taken from a 1982 hand copied guide by Frank Eastwood. Copies of pages can be provided if you email me.