Chambe East Face: SE Butress
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Routes in Mulanje Massif
|Chambe East Face: SE Butress T A0|
|Type:||Trad, Aid, 1800 ft, Grade IV|
|FA:||Frank Eastwood and Julie Sutton 1979|
|Page Views:||99 total, 2/month|
|Shared By:||John Bradford on Jul 14, 2013|
DescriptionOne point of aid on the climb. 10 hours to the summit ridge.
From the bivi site look for the start at below a long near horizontal overhang.
1) Tufted slabs, following the line of least resistance. Bear right to reach the overhang 15 Meters from its upper right corner. 110M grade 2-3
2) Move right into the corner and ascend via an old aid bolt to the upper gully.
3) Stay right in the gully ascending slabs for 110M grade 2-3. Obtain the major fault that splits the wall of the butress
4) First steep pitch up the buttress. A thin crack. 40M Finish at an old bolt belay.
5) Crux moves through 12 M of a widening fault with old bolts.
6) Continue up the same crack/chimney system for another 250M grade 3-5.