Jive Turkeys
5.12 YDS 7b+ French 27 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E6 6b British PG13
| Type: | Trad, 250 ft (76 m), 3 pitches |
| GPS: | 31.92656, -109.97723 |
| FA: | Scott Ayers & Mark Colby |
| Page Views: | 485 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | Jon.R on Mar 2, 2022 |
| Admins: | adrian montaƱo, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
For the latest information, go to this link: fs.usda.gov/recarea/coronad…
Please take note of the request for climbers to avoid disturbing raptors if at all possible.
Self-policing our behavior is MUCH better than an outright ban!
CASA Page on Raptors for more information: theclimbershome.org/breedin…
Douglas Ranger District Tel: 520.364.6816.
Description
Jive Turkeys is a two-pitch mostly bolted variation to Jive Chimney. The route starts on a ledge at the top of P1/P2 of Jive Chimney depending on whether you link pitches.
P1 - 5.9 PG13 (w/ 5.8R) (~150') - Scamper up the slab to the ledge at the base of the Chimney. Follow the unprotected squeeze chimney on suspect rock and sparse pro, eventually exiting out right to a sloping ledge and a bolted belay
P2 - 5.12 (90') - Crank out a hard, reachy, boulder problem to more moderate climbing, followed by an easier crux up high. Easy to aid through this and climb the route at 11+.
P3 - 5.11 (50') - Head up and right past a bolt, sling and mantel onto the chickenheads. A few slab moves leads to the next bolt and the anchor shared with the top of Decline of Western Civilization (DoWC). Slab moves are somewhere in the 5.7-5.9 range and are R-rated if the okay-looking chickenhead blows.
Descent: Rap as described in DoWC with a single 60m. Or, you can do a single rap all the way to the base of DoWC w/ 2x 60m ropes.



0 Comments