Type: Trad, 250 ft (76 m), 3 pitches
FA: Scott Ayers & Mark Colby
Page Views: 378 total · 11/month
Shared By: Jon.R on Mar 2, 2022
Admins: adrian montaƱo, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen

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Description Suggest change

Jive Turkeys is a two-pitch mostly bolted variation to Jive Chimney. The route starts on a ledge at the top of P1/P2 of Jive Chimney depending on whether you link pitches.

P1 - 5.9 PG13 (w/ 5.8R) (~150') - Scamper up the slab to the ledge at the base of the Chimney. Follow the unprotected squeeze chimney on suspect rock and sparse pro, eventually exiting out right to a sloping ledge and a bolted belay

P2 - 5.12 (90') - Crank out a hard, reachy, boulder problem to more moderate climbing, followed by an easier crux up high. Easy to aid through this and climb the route at 11+.

P3 - 5.11 (50') - Head up and right past a bolt, sling and mantel onto the chickenheads. A few slab moves leads to the next bolt and the anchor shared with the top of Decline of Western Civilization (DoWC). Slab moves are somewhere in the 5.7-5.9 range and are R-rated if the okay-looking chickenhead blows.

Descent: Rap as described in DoWC with a single 60m. Or, you can do a single rap all the way to the base of DoWC w/ 2x 60m ropes.

Location Suggest change

Climbers left of the Rockfellow descent gully at the base of an obvious Chimney, down and left from the start of Decline of Western Civilization (mossy looking bolted slab with a flat staging area)

Protection Suggest change

P1 (Jive Chimney): 1x from 0 - #4, many long slings
P2: ~14 draws/slings, 1x from 0.2-0.5
P3: 2 draws, 1 sling for a chickenhead

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