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Chalkdust Torture
5.11- YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British
Type: | Trad, 325 ft (98 m), 3 pitches |
FA: | Scott Ayers and Laura Wilkinson, 2001 |
Page Views: | 1,263 total · 18/month |
Shared By: | John Sirois on Feb 17, 2019 |
Admins: | adrian montaƱo, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
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Closure information appears to be in a transition state.
For the latest information, go to this link: fs.usda.gov/recarea/coronad…
Please take note of the request for climbers to avoid disturbing raptors if at all possible.
Self-policing our behavior is MUCH better than an outright ban!
CASA Page on Raptors for more information: theclimbershome.org/breedin…
Douglas Ranger District Tel: 520.364.6816.
For the latest information, go to this link: fs.usda.gov/recarea/coronad…
Please take note of the request for climbers to avoid disturbing raptors if at all possible.
Self-policing our behavior is MUCH better than an outright ban!
CASA Page on Raptors for more information: theclimbershome.org/breedin…
Douglas Ranger District Tel: 520.364.6816.
Description
P1: 5.11- Thin, hard moves to the 1st bolt - stick clip advised - then traverse up and right past several bolts. At this point there is a bolt above and a bolt even farther right. Go right into a shallow scoop and then, finally, up past a bolt to the anchors.
P2: 5.11- Head up the obvious line of bolts above past a roof formed from a sharp tongue of rock to a pin below a bulging roof. An extremely long reach (helps to be ~6'5" tall!) out of an undercling of this roof gets to the 1st of two more bolts before anchors above a chicken head rail.
P3: 5.11- Ascend easy plates up and right into the corner where you can see a high bolt on the right wall. You probably want to protect the clip with gear in the corner. After you have the bolt clipped launch up a few devious moves to large plates that can be slung to span the gap to the final bolt before reaching anchors.
Rap the line or else rap straight to the anchors on top of the 1st pitch of Forest Lawn with a 70m and from there to the ground.
P2: 5.11- Head up the obvious line of bolts above past a roof formed from a sharp tongue of rock to a pin below a bulging roof. An extremely long reach (helps to be ~6'5" tall!) out of an undercling of this roof gets to the 1st of two more bolts before anchors above a chicken head rail.
P3: 5.11- Ascend easy plates up and right into the corner where you can see a high bolt on the right wall. You probably want to protect the clip with gear in the corner. After you have the bolt clipped launch up a few devious moves to large plates that can be slung to span the gap to the final bolt before reaching anchors.
Rap the line or else rap straight to the anchors on top of the 1st pitch of Forest Lawn with a 70m and from there to the ground.
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