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Routes in Bastion Towers

Forest Lawn T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Pair a Grins T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, Sport, 150 ft
FA: Eric Fazio-Rhicard and Mike Jimmerson, 1985
Page Views: 3,126 total, 29/month
Shared By: Jason Halladay on Feb 24, 2009
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


29 Opinions

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Closed from March 1 to June 30 Details

Description

Pair a Grins is an alternate way to finish Forest Lawn after climbing the first pitch of Forest Lawn. From the bolted belay anchor atop P1 of Forest Lawn, start up the flakes/crack to the right of the belay for about eight feet. A good .75 camalot and #3 camalot protect this section. Keep an eye out for the bolts out right on the arete of the crack--that's Pair a Grins. When you're about even with the first bolt, figure out the committing and tough moves to move out right onto the arete and clip the first bolt. These first few moves are the crux of the route. Once on the arete, follow plates and edges up the steep and exposed arete clipping four more bolts as the angle eases up. It does get a bit run-out up near the top but the difficulty eases up. A two bolt rap anchor sits above the roof/crack but not nearly at the top of the formation. It seems one could continue to the top via easy terrain if desired. We opted to not go to the top and rapped all the way to the base of Forest Lawn with two 60m ropes from this two-bolt anchor. Easy rap, clean pull.

Location

On the arete/face just right of the standard second pitch of Forest Lawn.

Protection

5 or 6 bolts to a two bolt anchor.

Photos

Austin Sobotka
Tucson, AZ
  5.10a/b
Austin Sobotka   Tucson, AZ
  5.10a/b
This is a great pitch of climbing: interesting and varied movement, great position, and enough spice to make it memorable. The move over to the first bolt can be protected by a hand-sized piece, although you'll want to extend it with at least a double length, to avoid drag higher up. The bolts have some healthy spacing between them, but nothing extreme. That being said, the bolts aren't in great condition. Probably best not to whip onto any of them... Feb 26, 2017
joe disciullo
Charlotte, NC
  5.10c
joe disciullo   Charlotte, NC
  5.10c
This was a very fun finish to Forest Lawn. There is a move to the first bolt which requires some care. I think the crux is just after clipping that bolt. After 3 or 4 bolts of .10 climbing the grade eases up but I was a little unsure of which way to head. Head slightly right around the blunt arete on easier but run out terrain. Dec 22, 2009