Toog's Terror
5.2 YDS 3 French 8 Ewbanks II UIAA 8 ZA D 2c British R
| Type: | Trad, 250 ft (76 m), 3 pitches |
| GPS: | 36.49982, -121.20222 |
| FA: | Jim Smith and John Armitage 4/1964 |
| Page Views: | 544 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Bruce Hildenbrand on Jan 14, 2021 |
| Admins: | andy patterson, Aron Quiter, Bruce Hildenbrand, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Current Raptor Advisories for Pinnacles National Park nps.gov/pinn/planyourvisit/…
and
pinnacles.org/climbing_info…
Closures effective as of the day after Martin Luther King Day- July 3. Check closure website for details on closed areas.
SPECIAL NOTICE: Condors have been establishing nests at the Pinnacles National Monument. Since condors develop to fledgling more slowly than raptors and vultures closures due to condor nesting is extended past the usual Martin Luther King Day to July 3rd. Again, please check the "Current Raptor Advisory" section of the NPS website and/or the Friends of Pinnacles website for current closures.
As of July 2024 there are three active Condor nests at Pinnacles National Park.
The Machete Ridge area is closed from Pigeon Crack on west face then west around the south side to The Hideout including the popular Old Original.
All climbing routes at Crowley Towers are closed.
All routes on the Yaks and Yaks Wall plus Marauder.
Description
This is a true Pinnacles adventure which was put up during the Golden Age of climbing at the Pinns. There isn't much protection on any of the pitches, but the climbing isn't hard. Bring a good head for adventure!
Probably the most difficult move is gaining the face at the bottom of the route. Climb a steep, mossy 10-15' pinnacle of rock which is leaning against the wall. From there scramble up the low angle slab enjoying the amazing succulent plants(try not to step on them!) for about 120 feet to a huge meadow and tree anchor. There is no protection on this pitch.
To start the second pitch, find a dead pine tree which has a somewhat flattened trunk because it has been growing against the wall. Bearhug the tree to gain the ledge above and belay on sparse anchors.
Pitch three heads up the ramp to the left to a low angle water streak with a bolt. Clip the bolt and pad up the streak to the top and the two bolt anchor for Toog's Trailside.
Rappel 60' to the base of Toog's Trailside.



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