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Gillett Arete
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 2 from 6
votes
Routes in D. Right of Wizard's Gate
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Bunions S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Central Buttress/5.7 start T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Closed Casket S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Gillett Arete S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Grand Central S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Not Wizard's Gate S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Off to See the Wizard T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Pyramid Scheme S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Wild Raspberry T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
| Type: | Sport, 225 ft (68 m), 2 pitches |
| GPS: | 40.30527, -105.52307 |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 973 total · 14/month |
| Shared By: | David A. Turner on Aug 20, 2020 · Updates |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: Area Closure ended but timed entry permits are REQUIRED
Details
Per Bob Siegrist: as of 6/11/20, the parking areas are no longer blocked off. RMNP is open.
Per Matt B: this area is currently closed to all visitors due to temporary RMNP closures. The entire parking area is blocked off. Please do not threaten access to this area by climbing during this closure to all visitors.
Description
This is a new route that starts on the right wall of a large inset right of Not Wizard's Gate. It has a nice position but needs a good brushing.
The crux comes in the first 10 feet as the route ascends the short right wall and then hugs the arete as it skirts around a short overhang on the left. After the overhang, head toward the middle of the slab and the first belay. (Skip the low first anchor in the middle of the slab as this is located on the parallel route to the right). The second pitch heads back to the arete, climbs blocky rock on the left side, then jumps back on to the slab and the top anchor (5.6).
Right of this top anchor is an attractive headwall with 4 bolts. This is the top of the parallel route on the right (a much harder route by far). If you're up for 5.10-, forget the top anchor of the route you just climbed, and head up the headwall to a higher anchor. The headwall will be the best part of the climb.
Rap the parallel route in three raps with a 70 meter rope. A 60 meter rope may require an additional rappel off the low anchor.
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