All Locations > Colorado > Estes Park Valley > CO Hwy 7 & Trib… > Crags > Lower Great Face > D. Right of Wizard's…

Wild Raspberry

Name: Wild Raspberry
Rating: 2.8

5.8- YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 14 ZA VS 4c British

Routes in D. Right of Wizard's Gate

L › R R › L A › Z

	Bunions S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
	Central Buttress/5.7 start T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Closed Casket S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Gillett Arete S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Grand Central S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Not Wizard's Gate S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
	Off to See the Wizard T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Pyramid Scheme S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Wild Raspberry T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

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Type:	Trad, 470 ft (142 m), 4 pitches
GPS:	40.30527, -105.52307
FA:	Bernard Gillett?
Page Views:	820 total · 19/month
Shared By:	Chris Sheridan on Jun 12, 2022 · Updates
Admins:	Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Area Closure ended but timed entry permits are REQUIRED Details

Per Julius Beres & Matt B: $2 timed entry permits issued by RMNP are definitely required if you arrive after 9a and before 3p.

Per Bob Siegrist: as of 6/11/20, the parking areas are no longer blocked off. RMNP is open.

Per Matt B: this area is currently closed to all visitors due to temporary RMNP closures. The entire parking area is blocked off. Please do not threaten access to this area by climbing during this closure to all visitors.

Description

No seriously, who's route is this? Speak up, because it's great.

P1. The climb starts off following about 5 user-friendly (read: closely spaced) bolts up an arete, then it cuts left past a crack before venturing straight up following bolts up a fun and technical face, ending at a super comfy belay ledge. It's definitely worth placing a finger-sized cam or stopper in the crack after the 5th bolt. Otherwise, you'll be a good ways above and to the side of your last clip while pulling some of the more technical and less secure moves on the pitch, 35m, 5.8ish.

P2. Climb straight up and into a super fun layback flake just to the right of the bolt line. The bolts get a little more spaced out on the easier climbing above, but it's not as bad as it looks at first, as some of the bolts are hidden until you're a little closer to them. The bolted belay is right at about 35 meters to facilitate an easy rappel, but it's not a very comfy stance, so consider linking this into the next pitch or clipping and lowering back down if you don't have a light trad rack, 5.8ish.

P3. Easier but fun climbing leads straight up following discontinuous cracks, but there no bolts on this pitch, save the two at the anchor, 35m, 5.7ish.

P4. From here, there are several possible lines to take you to the top of the cliff band. Straight up offers some more adventurous climbing through a roof with sparce protection and a few questionably solid blocks. Traversing hard left would allow you to gain the ridge for more pleasant climbing. Angling up and right would probably go as well, 30m. Be careful to not send any loose rocks down on any parties below.

Location

About 60 meters to the right of the central buttress are two bolted routes leading up the scooped face. This is the left of those two routes, and Not Wizard's Gate is the right.