Central Buttress/5.7 start
Avg: 2 from 2 votes
Routes in Lower Great Face
|Anchor Baby T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R|
|Beside The Seaside T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Central Buttress/5.7 start T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Closed Casket S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|DuMais Route T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R|
|Green Wave, The T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Hobbits Way T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Left Center T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R|
|Pyramid Scheme S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Ramshorn T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Tribal Regions T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Type:||Trad, 600 ft, 3 pitches|
|Page Views:||138 total, 1/month|
|Shared By:||Leo Paik on Aug 26, 2001|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionThis is a pleasant climb up the obvious rounded arête splitting the Lower Great Face; however, it utilizes an easier start to the right (in the land of many dihedrals) to gain the arête 200 feet up. The actual rounded arête looked challenging for the group I was with that day, so we looked left, then right for less bulging terrain.
P1. To the right of this arête, we used a nice crack/dihedral system for perhaps 100 feet, 5.6, from there a traverse into more alpine-feeling terrain and a slight left-angling line took us to a perch with ok belay with a wire, #0.75 Camalot, #1 Camalot, and red Alien, 200 feet.
P2. Move up alpine-feeling rock to a mid-cliff break and continue up exquisite, beautiful, face climbing reminiscent of an toned-down version of Hallett's, 5.5, 200ft.
P3. Easier climbing arcs slightly to the left to a ledge system short of the top. One last bit and you're there. Beware of rope drag with this last bit. 5.4, 200ft. Walk off E into the gully between the Upper and Lower Great Faces and skirt the Lower Great Face on the N end.
Certainly there are harder variations to this line, 5.10b Rossiter & Griebe, 5.10d Gillett & Snively, but the path of least resistance described here is a delightful romp.