Type: Trad, 100 ft (30 m)
GPS: 36.16129, -115.41725
FA: Van Betten, Crawford, Mamusia - 1986
Page Views: 681 total · 9/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Mar 9, 2020
Admins: Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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Description Suggest change

Porch Pirate is a fun face climb that gets a lot of sun and has a really short approach - great for a winter afternoon. Soft rock and some so-so pro keep it head's up, but it is not overly dangerous for a seasoned climber comfortable at the grade.

The climb tackles the center of a nice triangular shield of rock above the classic Plumber's Crack boulder problem and left of Classic Crack of Calico. Scramble up to a ledge system from the right side to get to the start of the route.

Climb some steep, hollow rock to an obtuse corner - this section has pro of questionable quality, but there's enough to keep it sane. Above the corner, climb the nice varnished face past a few bolts to an anchor at the top of the wall.

Lower off with a 60m rope, or, with a 70m rope, you can skip the initial approach scramble (recommended).

Location Suggest change

Above Plumber's Crack, left of Classic Crack of Calico.

Protection Suggest change

1x to #2 Camalot, wires.

A few bolts. Some have been replaced but the two upper ones are the original 3/8" bolts with new hangers only - and I don't know if the bolts are wedge bolts or split-shafts (so in other words, they might be bad). There is a good bolted anchor however.

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