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Routes in Kraft Crags

Classic Crack of Calico T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Last Calico, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Schrödinger's Calico T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Semi-Professional Moron T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shark Attack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Type: Trad, 160 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,499 total, 20/month
Shared By: Matt Kuehl on Dec 5, 2011
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

Furthest route to climbers right. This great looking line climbs a series of of right-leaning cracks. Expect to encounter everything from finger crack to off width on this sustained and entertaining line. Many minor variations can be done depending on exactly which crack you decide to follow and when.

After topping out and bringing up the second, there is still about 60 feet of scrambling on easier class 4 ground before reaching the descent ridge/trail. Once on this ridge head right and look for cairns.

Location

200' right and slightly higher than Classic Crack of Calico

Protection

Single rack to 5", double 2"-4"

Photos

geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
  5.10b
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
  5.10b
I would add : don't go to visible anchor, keep crossing toward right cracks, crux is thin at the top and gear is fiddly to place, some very sandy parts, and no anchor at top, save cams .5, .75 or #1 for top anchor. walk off is fine. Dec 3, 2015
Kevin Dahlstrom
Fort Worth, TX
  5.10-
Kevin Dahlstrom   Fort Worth, TX
  5.10-
This route has some fantastic, thought-provoking climbing... BUT... it also has a lot of soft, sandy rock on the upper half of the route. My partner and I agreed that there are no moves harder than 5.9 but the difficultly is sustained and the gear is a bit tricky, mostly due to rock quality. If the rock quality was much better this would be a 3 or 4 star route but as is it's a 2 star - good, not great.

I brought doubles to 3 and a single 4 and 5 and that seemed to work OK, although I wouldn't have minded having another 3.

Here's a trick to make the descent a little more pleasant: Have your follower make the long rappel to the base on a single line from your anchor, taking the rack with him. Then toss down the rope and scramble down (after first scrambling up a couple hundred feet) with nothing on your back. If you move with purpose it only takes about 10 minutes. Nov 12, 2015
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
 
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
 
So what is the story on the 5.8(?) variation that stays left and stops after 20 meters at an anchor? Apr 11, 2015
Matt Kuehl
Las Vegas
 
Matt Kuehl   Las Vegas
 
This is one of my favorite climbs I've done on Kraft Mtn so far. The climb presented me with pretty much every style of crack climbing, with the exception of chimneys. Really cool moves that keep on coming. Don't be discouraged by the descent it is well worth the extra effort. Also don't skimp on the gear because it'll get used. Jan 27, 2012
Great route.

Was on it years ago, rope stretcher and crux is thin if i remember correctly.
Lots of loose rock at the top, and getting down is a nightmare unless other anchors have appeared somewhere around the top or perhaps i missed them.
The mid-height anchors are new since i was there and should be fun.
With this now posted, hopefully it will clean up a bit, great route and hope it will get climbed more.

Thanks for posting and photos Dec 6, 2011