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Routes in Kraft Crags

Classic Crack of Calico T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Last Calico, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Schrödinger's Calico T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Semi-Professional Moron T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Shark Attack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Type: Trad, 115 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Matt Kuehl, Jason Molina, Ken Rathcke Jan 2012
Page Views: 760 total, 11/month
Shared By: Matt Kuehl on Feb 14, 2012
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

Shark Attack goes up, under, and inside the huge roof on Kraft Mountain. This route is a great adventure route with a short approach.

Pitch 1 - 60' Start near a slight dihedral and carefully continue up questionable rock. Gain a short (but great) crack and pull up and over it to reach a pretty good stance. Belay here.

Pitch 2 - 55' The money pitch! Continue up the corner crack until you find yourself inside the huge traversing chimney squeeze (good rock). From here, ask yourself what you're doing and commit to getting up inside the jaws of the shark. Lots of squeeze techniques and winging needed. Once negotiating the traverse you gain a left facing corner, where you can smear. Exit out through a small slot headfirst. Belay a few feet higher off a slung block and micro nuts/small cam.

If any additional information is know about the potential FA of this climb, please let me know.

Protection

Single rack to 4", Double 6" and one #5 Big Bro.
Pants and long sleeves or prepare to get bit.
Helmet for anyone below the leader.

Location

The largest roof on a band of pinkish rock on the South side of Kraft Mtn. Between High Roller and Shark Vegas.

Photos

This shit is SOOOOOOO cool. Seriously. Wondered a dozen times what it would be like to crawl up into the belly of the beast.

Rad that you guys got it done! Pink rock mafia! Feb 15, 2012