Avg: 2 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, 150 ft, 2 pitches|
|FA:||FRA: Andy Hansen & Gina Matranga, 2/8/2012|
|Page Views:||597 total, 8/month|
|Shared By:||Andy Hansen on Feb 8, 2012|
|Admins:||Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen|
RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. ***** HUMAN WASTE ***** Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council identified this problem years ago and has worked to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas). This project was funded primarily by the American Alpine Club
DescriptionWhen looking at the Kraft Crags (identified as the 100-125 foot, pink cliff band directly above the talus field near the Kraft Boulders) from the Kraft parking lot the route is up and to the left. The primary landmark is easily identified as the significantly lower angled sunken pillar of rock. This route climbs the right facing corner crack of that feature.
Approach: Go into the Kraft boulderfield and pass the Cube heading east. Once at the Warm Up Boulders go directly up hill (north) and through a talus field. Once the talus field ends a 4th class move brings you to a fairly level platform. Once on this platform head to the east about 100 feet.
Pitch 1: The first pitch begins in a right facing corner finger crack. Once up to a small roof, move right into the adjacent left facing corner crack. From here pull another bulge on a few good pockets. Now this is where you move into the obvious left facing corner. Move into the LF corner (crux) then up the wide crack to a good belay stance. 5.9
Pitch 2: The handcrack up through the wide crack over a bulge. The rock on the adjacent faces is a bit crusty- be careful what you step on and/or pull down on. Pull through the bulge and climb over easy 5th class terrain to one bolt (?) and a gear belay. 5.10-
Descent: Scramble up through some low 5th class terrain trending west (left) until you've almost reached the summit. A very large boulder appears at the top of a gully. Scramble down the gully following the path of least resistance. Some sections are exposed but none of the down climbing is very difficult. Once you've reached a gravelly flat spot, head east (left) back to the base of the route.
This most certainly had been done before our ascent.