Type: Ice, 180 ft (55 m), 2 pitches, Grade II
GPS: 51.3253, -115.2211
FA: Frank Campbell and Alan Kane, Feb 1985
Page Views: 1,107 total · 15/month
Shared By: Luka Bogdanovic on Mar 1, 2020
Admins: Dave Rone, Tom Jones, Richard Rose, Rhys Beaudry

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

A Valley of the Birds classic.

Start with 20 meters of WI2-3 ice to a tree belay. Bring your partner up and walk up 20 meters of snow slope to the base of Yellow Bird proper. Fire up your choice of line on steep and fun ice to either a tree anchor on the right or on the left.

From the trees it is about 32-33 meters to the snow slope, a 60 meter rope will likely not make it for a lower/top rope.

Two rappels get you back to the canyon floor.

Location Suggest change

Approach by driving into the North Ghost to GBU (or as far as you can) and parking there. Walk West along the river from GBU for about a hundred meters and then ford the river and head into the obvious valley that sits immediately West of GBU.

Climb 15 meters of WI2 approach ice with bolted anchors on both the left and right and then meander your way up the canyon, passing a log jam you need to scramble past (crampons work great for wood!).

The first ice you pass on your right is Dead Bird (WI2), another couple minutes past it you will come to the first pitch of Yellow Bird on your right in a tight squeeze in the canyon. 

Protection Suggest change

Standard ice rack.

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