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Routes in North Ghost

Type: Ice, 2200 ft, 6 pitches, Grade III
FA: unknown
Page Views: 249 total, 23/month
Shared By: Karl Henize on Jan 27, 2017
Admins: Dave Rone, Tom Gnyra

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Description

Hike up the shallow frozen creek as it bends back left and eventually exposes the first two aesthetic hanging pitches of Beowulf, which look much steeper than they really are from a distance. At some time, put on your crampons to assist with the approach and continue to the base of the first short step.

1st Pitch/60m- I combined what many would consider two pitches but is easily done as one. Climb the first step (WI 3) left of center and walk to the base of the real falls. This is a WI 4 30m beauty. The left side was better ice but less steeply angled than the right. The right side was more challenging, but was quite wet and chandeliery. I started right, but soon, detoured left and then back to the center towards the end of this pitch. There is a chain anchor on the right as you top out. This can be a very cold belay, so make sure to pack your down on lead. Also beware of falling rock whose fall line appears to be the left side, another reason for taking the more challenging line to the right if the ice is in better shape.

Middle Pitches- The middle ground involves quite a bit of hiking on ice. You will run into two falls worth pitching out, but could be soloed as well. Neither are above WI 3.

Last Two Pitches/60m and 25m- Eventually you come to a short waterfall step ahead and to the right as the canyon narrows (two odd bird nests in the canyon wall on your right- photos). To your left is a 60m tall waterfall of WI 4 broken up by a few steps. The steepest section is the first 20 meters or so. You more than likely will be angling back left until you reach the first break. Then approach the 2nd section head on and the final piece angles back left again, until you top out to a broad bench with trees to your left for the belay. Beware that this pitch can cause considerable ice fall on your belay below which is located in confined quarters.

The final shorter curtain can be WI 5 if you take the right side, but can also be quite wet and chandeliery. Tops out at a tree belay.

Location

This is a remote area and very little exists in the way of facilities or emergency help.

At the bottom of the big hill, turn right and do your best to follow a sometimes vague, sometimes obvious, track along the right of the wash until it becomes essential to cross the wash heading west and navigate further north crossing a well established bridge over the river and continuing through some big rutts and/or snow drifts until you come to a river crossing. An official government ban on crossing this river is in effect currently (2007) and appears to be an issue at large. Look for signage to that effect. It is regarding trout migration. Whether on foot or vehicle, cross the river and turn left heading west following the river. At a forced second crossing (cliff) is GBU (the Good, the Bad, the Ugly), a significant ice wall leading down to the river bed on the right. Continue past GBU along the river via a road on the left side until even with the next valley running north which is Valley of the Birds. Continue west on a road that sometimes is easy to follow and other times looks like a rubble of rocks. You will pass Burning in Water, Drowning by Flame, WI 6+ and the Sliver, WI 6 high up on your left. Valley of the Sun, WI 3+ and Beowulf are two valleys side by side on your right, Beowulf being the 2nd. At a river crossing back to the north side of the river, start angling right for the left handed entrance into the valley that contains Beowulf and Devil’s Punchbowl.

Protection

Ice screws and v-threads. Some bolted belay/rap stations. Trees at top out are usually slug with cord and webbing.

Photos

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