Type: Ice, 280 ft (85 m), 2 pitches, Grade III
FA: Joe Josephson and Brian Spear (both solo) Jan. 1989
Page Views: 128 total · 14/month
Shared By: Luka Bogdanovic on Mar 1, 2020
Admins: Dave Rone, Tom Gnyra

You & This Route


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Description

A good warm up or beginner ice multipitch route.

Solo a 3 meter step and set up a belay far off to the right underneath the first pitch to be out of line of fire.

P1 (35m): Climb a ribbon of ice that steepens near the top to a tree belay on the right.

P2 (20m): Climb easy rolling ice (or possibly just snow) for 20 meters to a tree belay on the left.

P3 (30m): Climb one steeper step of a few meters in the cleft to more steps of rolling ice and a bolted anchor on the left.

Note that it is very easy to combine P1 and P2 and makes for a better belay stance anyway.

Descent: 2 double rope rappels gets you to the ground, it is a bit awkward rappelling from the bolted anchors to the P1 belay tree however.

Location

About 15 minutes up the canyon from the mouth of the Valley of the Birds.

Albatross is past Yellow Bird and Seagull, and it is NOT the WI2-3 smear that is immediately after Seagull. Instead it is the left hand side of an obvious fork in the canyon, where the right hand side goes towards the Eagle.

See Yellow Bird entry for how to access the valley.

Protection

Standard ice rack.

Photos

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