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Routes in North Ghost
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Albatross WI3 |
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Beowulf WI4 |
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Chilkoot Passage T WI4 |
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Cryophobia WI5+ M8 |
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Devil's Punchbowl WI4 |
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Different S M6+ |
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Eagle, The WI5 |
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Fang & Fist T WI5 |
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Good, The Bad, & The Ugly (GBU), The WI4 |
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Husky Howl WI4 |
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Hydrophobia WI5+ |
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Seagull WI4 |
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Sorcerer, The T WI5 |
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This House of Sky WI3 |
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Yellow Bird WI4 |
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| Type: | Ice, 280 ft (85 m), 2 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | Joe Josephson and Brian Spear (both solo) Jan. 1989 |
| Page Views: | 891 total · 14/month |
| Shared By: | Luka Bogdanovic on Mar 1, 2020 · Updates |
| Admins: | Dave Rone, Tom Jones, Richard Rose, Rhys Beaudry |
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Description
A good warm up or beginner ice multipitch route.
Solo a 3 meter step and set up a belay far off to the right underneath the first pitch to be out of line of fire.
P1 (35m): Climb a ribbon of ice that steepens near the top to a tree belay on the right.
P2 (20m): Climb easy rolling ice (or possibly just snow) for 20 meters to a tree belay on the left.
P3 (30m): Climb one steeper step of a few meters in the cleft to more steps of rolling ice and a bolted anchor on the left.
Note that it is very easy to combine P1 and P2 and makes for a better belay stance anyway.
Descent: 2 double rope rappels gets you to the ground, it is a bit awkward rappelling from the bolted anchors to the P1 belay tree however.
Solo a 3 meter step and set up a belay far off to the right underneath the first pitch to be out of line of fire.
P1 (35m): Climb a ribbon of ice that steepens near the top to a tree belay on the right.
P2 (20m): Climb easy rolling ice (or possibly just snow) for 20 meters to a tree belay on the left.
P3 (30m): Climb one steeper step of a few meters in the cleft to more steps of rolling ice and a bolted anchor on the left.
Note that it is very easy to combine P1 and P2 and makes for a better belay stance anyway.
Descent: 2 double rope rappels gets you to the ground, it is a bit awkward rappelling from the bolted anchors to the P1 belay tree however.
Location
About 30-45 minutes (or more) up the canyon from the mouth of the Valley of the Birds, depending on snow depth, which varies significantly.
Albatross is past Yellow Bird and Seagull, and it is NOT the WI2-3 smear that is immediately after Seagull. Instead it is the left hand side of an obvious fork in the canyon, where the right hand side goes towards the Eagle.
See Yellow Bird entry for how to access the valley.
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