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Routes in Seismic Wall A.K.A. Maggie's Wall
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ACK! S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Angel of Poets S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Bird Dog S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Black Slabbath S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Butt Scratch S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Captain Morgan S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Cuttin' Cards for a Poke S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Die Easy S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Diving for Rocks S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Dogtailing S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Hollywood S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Hoover Head S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Hoovering TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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It's A Wiggle Butt S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Just For Fun S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Lick the Window S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Lonesome Dove S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Luminaire Noir S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Maggy Needs New Shoes S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Magster S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Man Hands S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Matter of Honor S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Mister Blister S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Mongrel, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Nose Print on the Windshield S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Over Easy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Over Easy Direct S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Rock Dog TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Roo Dog S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Seismic Step S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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She's No Dog She's My Wife S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Short People S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Slimy Crack aka Icecubes, Popcorn and Popsicles S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Torpedoes Away S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Trad Desperation T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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Undertow S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
| Type: | Trad, TR, 30 ft (9 m) |
| GPS: | 30.24535, -97.79986 |
| FA: | Bob Sihler; July 19, 2019 |
| Page Views: | 1,264 total · 16/month |
| Shared By: | Robert S on Oct 26, 2019 · Updates |
| Admins: | mattm, Matt Richardson, Tommy Blackwell, Kathy Farmer, Vincent P, Jim Day, Joanie Mars |
Description
MP redacted the name I originally gave this route. While I think the redaction thing is largely silly with some exceptions, I'd rather have this route appear with a name than be listed as "Redacted."
The revised names reflects that if you're desperate to place gear in the ocean of bolts out here, this route will take it.
Sometime by summer 2019, a huge tree at the right end of Seismic fell, and its absence cleared the start of an entirely different line about a yard or so right of Black Slabbath. So on July 19 I led Black Slabbath and set some directionals to facilitate TRing this "new" route.
On September 22, I went back and led it trad. Because the placements were sketchy and there were fewer than I thought there'd be, I will not describe them or recommend gear. Basically, I led it trad just in case I really did do the FA and someone came along and said it didn't count because it was on TR.
To anchor, I crossed over to the Black Slabbath anchors and placed a cam and a hex along the way to protect that short, easy traverse. While I have used that rock before for directionals and have rapped off such placements, that time I found that the rock there has gone from questionable to terrible, and I even trundled some large pieces. However, there is still okay rock if you look for it.
If there is a party on BS, you will need to go up into the brush to find solid trees for anchors; the rock around the topout is not sufficient for building a safe anchor. You can TR this off the BS anchors, but a fall will mean a big swing left, possibly crashing into a climber or rope on Die Easy just left of BS. So basically don't climb this route unless DE and BS are unoccupied or you are willing and equipped to lead the route and then crash through brush.
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