Type: Sport, 110 ft
FA: Karl Vochatzer
Page Views: 386 total · 21/month
Shared By: Robert S on Jul 17, 2017
Admins: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff

You & This Route


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Description

This is the longest "established" route on Seismic Wall, and it is a traverse. Because it crosses several popular lines and uses their hardware, be considerate of others and only do this route when you find this section of the wall empty.

I've listed the route as 5.8 as it is in the local guidebook, but that's a little confusing because the start is the crux and that start is also the crux of a 5.9 line. No, there's not a huge difference in those grades, but it's still a little confusing.

The route has a PG rating because of the second clip and the easy runout between the third and fourth clips.

The route: clip the first two bolts of the Mongrel (don't use the skinny tree if you want the 5.8 or 5.9) and then traverse left and clip Hollywood's second bolt. Traverse left and then climb Roo Dog's third and fourth bolts; climb to the anchors and clip the left anchor. Head up and left and clip Butt Scratch's left anchor. Finally, go up and left again and clip the anchors of It's a Wiggle Butt, and lower. Those anchors are easily distinguished because they are the highest on the wall.

The crux is the start. The climbing on Roo Dog is 5.7/5.8, and all the rest is easy and fun.

Location

The Mongrel is the third bolted route from the right end of Seismic Wall. It is between two skinny trees.

Protection

5 quickdraws. You might want a couple longer slings to reduce drag, but I haven't had any real drag problems with just standard-length draws.

With a 40m rope, I had about 18' left over, so a 35 might just work, but a 30 will not.

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