Type: Sport, 15 ft
FA: Steve Brothers
Page Views: 3,595 total · 29/month
Shared By: Jeff Kilpatrick on Dec 20, 2008 with updates from Tommy Blackwell and 1 other
Admins: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff

You & This Route


36 Opinions

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Description

A hard finish to Diving for Rocks

Location

From the top of Diving for Rocks directly out the roof

Protection

1 bolt plus fixed anchor
Dylan Weldin
Athens, OH
  5.11c
Dylan Weldin   Athens, OH
  5.11c
Please don't TR off of the one glue-in bolt in the roof (Even if your rope is running through the anchors for "Diving")! Not safe... Compared to other climbs in the region this is a solid 5.11c/d. Definitely easier than .12 and definitely harder than .11a May 1, 2011
jeremy long
BOULDER CO
jeremy long   BOULDER CO
Always wanted to try this route, but that mantle looks mean. What are the anchors on top? May 19, 2011
John D.
Austin, TX
  5.11b
John D.   Austin, TX
  5.11b
Great climb, solid 11b or c in my opinion, pulling the roof is a burly move which I'd say bumps it up to 12a, maybe 11d is you're a strong boulderer. Feb 22, 2013
Nicholas L.
Chapel Hill, NC
  5.11b/c
Nicholas L.   Chapel Hill, NC
  5.11b/c
As much as I wanted this to be my first send and flash on 5.12, I have to agree with the others that this is more like 5.11 b/c. The route is a lot of fun though. Sep 1, 2013
Ryan Levihn-Coon
Austin, Texas
  5.11c/d PG13
Ryan Levihn-Coon   Austin, Texas
  5.11c/d PG13
It's two sport anchors and a permadraw in the roof halfway to the chains in the middle of the roof now. Mar 13, 2014
Tyler Garrett
Dallas, TX
Tyler Garrett   Dallas, TX
Def a commitment move to get the middle chain on lonesome, the hold to reach it is completely polished. But once you get that, you're home free to do whatever you want, if you're worried about the obvious fall to a ledge, I'd suggest having someone set that middle perma.

Tons of fun.

Dont forget to use that hold as a heel and then smash your toe into the wall... if you're tall this is the best beta, dont mess around with putting your feet in the surf board when you're clipping the chains... it's really not necessary.

mountainproject.com/v/10829… - my right foot is hooked on the polished hold and then i turn my foot inward to lock my toe to the roof. Def good beta to keep the pump off your arms while you clip the chains Mar 27, 2014
5.11a - Awesome, definitely not harder than .11b Dec 5, 2014
Tommy Blackwell
Austin, Texas
  5.11b
Tommy Blackwell   Austin, Texas
  5.11b