Type: Sport
FA: Russell Mayes
Page Views: 4,220 total · 45/month
Shared By: Dylan Weldin on May 1, 2011 with updates from karl vochatzer
Admins: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff

You & This Route


21 Opinions

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Description

Hardest part is the end when hands get smaller and the the feet have to come over onto the fin

Location

Route is a continuation of Diving for Rocks. Lead out Lonesome Dove to the glue-in in the roof and then continue across on some gymnastic and powerful climbing to the anchors on the right end of the roof

Protection

Bolts to a sport anchor

Photos

Brady Robinson
Boulder, CO
  5.12b
Brady Robinson   Boulder, CO
  5.12b
Great route! Basically a quick, reachy boulder problem just before the anchor. Look for the twin kneebar bat hang just before the crux and get your camera ready. Tried to pull the mantle at the end past the anchor for extra credit, not enough gas in the tank... Dec 29, 2011
Ryan Levihn-Coon
Austin, Texas
 
Ryan Levihn-Coon   Austin, Texas
 
Four permadraws in the middle of the roof. Although relatively easy to clip, I would say you can definitely skip clipping the second one on the roof. That said, if the first blew and you don't make the third, it'd be an ugly fall into diving. How many times to bolts blow on the GB, though...? Sometimes, but...? Rope drag can be significant on this route. If your going to send Cutting, or work on it, I would recommend just clipping one of the sport anchors on Diving for Rocks. Super safe fall off this roof, perhaps one of the safest on the GB in my opinion. Could be called Fear of Flying... (:

Yesterday, I sent the route to the last permadraw after only clipping the first in the ceiling. Definitely not recommended, but a hell of a lot of fun when I blew the fourth/last clip and fell about 25 feet. Totally safe fall with a fun swing and no touching the wall. I didn't really not clip another permadraw on purpose, for reasons of little use here, but just thought I'd mention it for fun. Rare to get that much rope out on the lead on the GB, too, so the clean fall is soft and not too hard on the belayer.

Oh, last thought, as I see a lot of folks doing it. Stand close to the wall with a solid stance when belaying diving on the lead, especially if you're on the light side compared to your partner. I've seen more than a couple belayers being 'ripped' into the wall when standing too far back...

And kudos to the bat hang/knee bar... A must do! Mar 13, 2014
BrianLee Lee
Austin, Texas
  5.12a
BrianLee Lee   Austin, Texas
  5.12a
This route is great to build up endurance. I think the 5.12b rating is for Undertow, which is the final extension that tops out atop the anchors. Oct 7, 2014
Todd F  
Put some burns on this yesterday. The last moves are tough! Can be done with a 40m rope. May 23, 2018