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Routes in Seismic Wall A.K.A. Maggie's Wall

ACK! S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Angel of Poets S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bird Dog S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Black Slabbath S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Butt Scratch S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Captain Morgan S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Cuttin' Cards for a Poke S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Die Easy S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Diving for Rocks S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Dogtailing S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hollywood S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hoover Head S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hoovering TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
It's A Wiggle Butt S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Just For The Fun of It S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Lick the Window S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lonesone Dove S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Luminaire Noir S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Maggy Needs New Shoes TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Magster S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Man Hands S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Matter of Honor S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Mister Blister S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Mongrel, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Nose Print on the Windshield S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Over Easy S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rock Dog TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Roo Dog S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Seismic Step S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
She's No Dog She's My Wife S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Short People S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Slimy Crack aka Icecubes, Popcorn and Popsicles S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Torpedoes Away S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Sport
FA: Russell Mayes
Page Views: 3,573 total, 45/month
Shared By: Dylan Weldin on May 1, 2011 with updates
Admins: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff

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Description

Hardest part is the end when hands get smaller and the the feet have to come over onto the fin

Location

Route is a continuation of Diving for Rocks. Lead out Lonesone Dove to the glue-in in the roof and then continue across on some gymnastic and powerful climbing to the anchors on the right end of the roof

Protection

Bolts to a sport anchor
BrianLee
Austin, Texas
  5.12a
BrianLee   Austin, Texas
  5.12a
This route is great to build up endurance. I think the 5.12b rating is for Undertow, which is the final extension that tops out atop the anchors. Oct 7, 2014
Ryan Levihn-Coon
Austin, Texas
 
Ryan Levihn-Coon   Austin, Texas
 
Four permadraws in the middle of the roof. Although relatively easy to clip, I would say you can definitely skip clipping the second one on the roof. That said, if the first blew and you don't make the third, it'd be an ugly fall into diving. How many times to bolts blow on the GB, though...? Sometimes, but...? Rope drag can be significant on this route. If your going to send Cutting, or work on it, I would recommend just clipping one of the sport anchors on Diving for Rocks. Super safe fall off this roof, perhaps one of the safest on the GB in my opinion. Could be called Fear of Flying... (:

Yesterday, I sent the route to the last permadraw after only clipping the first in the ceiling. Definitely not recommended, but a hell of a lot of fun when I blew the fourth/last clip and fell about 25 feet. Totally safe fall with a fun swing and no touching the wall. I didn't really not clip another permadraw on purpose, for reasons of little use here, but just thought I'd mention it for fun. Rare to get that much rope out on the lead on the GB, too, so the clean fall is soft and not too hard on the belayer.

Oh, last thought, as I see a lot of folks doing it. Stand close to the wall with a solid stance when belaying diving on the lead, especially if you're on the light side compared to your partner. I've seen more than a couple belayers being 'ripped' into the wall when standing too far back...

And kudos to the bat hang/knee bar... A must do! Mar 13, 2014
Brady Robinson
  5.12b
Brady Robinson  
  5.12b
Great route! Basically a quick, reachy boulder problem just before the anchor. Look for the twin kneebar bat hang just before the crux and get your camera ready. Tried to pull the mantle at the end past the anchor for extra credit, not enough gas in the tank... Dec 29, 2011