Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,420 total · 11/month
Shared By: Matt Richardson on Jun 25, 2008
Admins: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff

You & This Route


43 Opinions

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Description

This is the route immediately to the right of Diving for Rocks and is easily distinguished by wide-ish (fist), flaring crack. This crack is the crux of this route - always greasy, it's tough to get your mitts to stick in this thing.

The top rope above this route is 12a, Lonesome Dove.

Location

To the right of Diving for Rocks.

Protection

3 bolts + anchors

Photos

Jeff Kilpatrick
  5.10-
Jeff Kilpatrick  
  5.10-
I don't know what the route out the roof is from the anchor, but Lonesome Dove is at the top of Diving for Rocks, at least according to Sean O'Grady's guidebook. Also, the anchors at the end of the roof are unlikely to be intended for toproping.

Cheers Dec 20, 2008
Matt Richardson
Longmont, CO
  5.10-
Matt Richardson   Longmont, CO  
  5.10-
Thanks, Jeff - I haven't done that one and was just regurgitating what was in Jeff Jackson's original guide. Jan 19, 2009
Underlord  
 
The Direct route is fun once you get your rope up. Apr 18, 2011
Tyler Garrett
Dallas, TX
  5.10-
Tyler Garrett   Dallas, TX
  5.10-
Skip the crack, or waste all of your chalk. Lonesome Dove is connected to Diving, not this route. Sep 26, 2012
trevor becker
  5.10-
trevor becker  
  5.10-
GoPro HERO 2 HD footage of Slimy Crack 5.10:

youtube.com/watch?v=7dsitqJ… Jan 16, 2013
BJB
Texas
  5.10b
BJB   Texas
  5.10b
Personally, I didn't think this route was much slimier than all the other humid rock I was climbing on today. Aug 23, 2013
Nicholas L.
Chapel Hill, NC
 
Nicholas L.   Chapel Hill, NC
 
Don't know how you could say the crack wasn't incredibly slimy. There is a pretty solid hand jam near the top of the crack. Not using this would make the route way harder or you would have to go off route probably. Sep 1, 2013
Dr Williams
AUSTIN, TX
  5.10-
Dr Williams   AUSTIN, TX
  5.10-
NICE ROUTE, Jul 25, 2014