Type: Trad, 450 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: Brooks Gunderson, Matthew Blaszak, Dylan Cole
Page Views: 184 total · 29/month
Shared By: Brooks Gunderson on Aug 18, 2019
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures ***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

If you like Offwidth, this climb is for you. If you don't like Offwidth, stay the hell away and don't down rate this climb. The first pitch alone is a 4 star for those who like wide splitters that are too big to stack in. Things start getting a little wonky after that but definitely adventurous and definitely a fun way to get to a high point and good view of the canyon. Dylan and I first worked this climb in September 2018 and definitely scared us a bit. It got its name from the chest slicing feeling on the first pitch and from the suicide mission of protecting the third pitch with tiny pieces in death blocks. I remembering tunneling through loose boulders all the size of smart cars when I got stuck 15 ft before the desired ledge. Taking everything off of my harness to throw to the ledge clearly wasn't enough. There's moments when climbing something dangerous where your high risk potential is coming head to head with your frustration. I for sure felt this when I was trying to push off a 300 lb teetering rock that was either going to lift me through the tunnel or chop off my foot. I blacked out and came to on the ledge. I remember two conversations with dylan after pulling him up to that ledge. The first convo was a very educated banter of saying "That was fucked up!" back and forth for a few minutes. The other was a serious sit down where I made Dylan promise me he would never tell his mom about what we did that day. Bern (Dylans mom), if you somehow find this post I deeply apologize for the irresponsible decision we made that day and promise to stay away from the dangerous stuff. That being said I really needed a belay. Also I threw some bolts in on the third pitch so no one else would have to go through that shit. Cheers and have fun.

P1. OW climbing Chimney Squeeze with big placements all the way through, don't use anything smaller than a 5. (Money Pitch) 5.10+

P2. Climb the chimney with cracks in back, fun and quick. 5.8

P3. Climb short OW into a Chimney with some sporty/fingery moves and keep 3 alpine draws for the 3 hangers in the Chimney near the top. End on the left ledge if looking up the chimney. 5.10-

P4. Move across big chockstone boulder and making a committing mantle to climb up the short finish to a dope view. The mantle is not as hard as it looks. 5.9

Descent. Rap the route with 2 60m's and be aware of how you pull ropes coming off the third pitch. This one can definitely eat your ropes and make your day a bit more stressful than it needs to be.

You may notice shiny chains, I apologize and intend on retrieving these chains in the next few months, I grabbed the wrong pack when originally bolting this route and will be back to bring painted chains. 

Location

Start at stop nine and look back toward the mouth of the canyon and you'll see 3 giant features on left side coming right of the shuttle road. The dihedral/chimney left of the third tower/pinnacle is seppuku. Hike towards it and stay left of the road until you find a short rock drainage on the left. Hike up drainage to light undefined trail at the base of the west facing wall, directly south of monkey finger. Traverse the wall to the right and do a little unprotected walk across a short ledge that may be a bit spooky with a big pack. You will then be placed at the bottom of a gaping chimney/squeeze (1st pitch). 

Protection

doubles .3 - 5's
triples 6's
1 VG 9
set of tubes (blue tube is critical for 1st pitch)
6 alpine draws
2 60m ropes

Photos

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