Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,471 total · 7/month
Shared By: Tony B on Nov 21, 2002
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures ***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

To find this route park at the Temple of Sinawava and walk to the bathroom area. Behind the bathrooms and to the right 200 meters total is an obvious massive, left-facing dihedral. That is Tourist Crack (AKA La Tourista).

Behind the bathrooms and left perhaps 100 meters total is a set of two other cracks. The one on the left is a crack and dihedral with dark rock referred to in another description as Unknown Left. To the right is a sweeping overhang of a left-facing corner described here.

Climb up a set of cracks just to the right of Unknown Left on easy moves (5.8-?) to reach the business of this route. You will arrive at a roof/overhang of wild proportion with an "undercling" crack in it. Place pro out right as far as possible (1.5" cam) and start moving out and right where what was an overhang becomes a strange roof.

Stem back, drop knee, smear, undercling, and contort your way out of this while protecting on TCU's to reach the lip of the roof, where some key face holds appear as the crack disappears. Above the roof the climbing eases to 5.10a or perhaps less. This is a good thing because you will probably be massively pumped and can't set gear there.

The start of the route is a little dirty, but all in all it is fun! Finish on good holds to the ledge and rap from the good fixed anchor. This is hard to TR because there is a big swing potential from the crux. The route felt like 12- to me. Maybe I missed something or maybe it is that hard.

Protection

One set of cams from .3 to 3" with extra from .5 to 1.5"

Photos