Avg: 2.5 from 2 votes
|Type:||Trad, 80 ft|
|Page Views:||1,471 total · 7/month|
|Shared By:||Tony B on Nov 21, 2002|
|Admins:||Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq|
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Behind the bathrooms and left perhaps 100 meters total is a set of two other cracks. The one on the left is a crack and dihedral with dark rock referred to in another description as Unknown Left. To the right is a sweeping overhang of a left-facing corner described here.
Climb up a set of cracks just to the right of Unknown Left on easy moves (5.8-?) to reach the business of this route. You will arrive at a roof/overhang of wild proportion with an "undercling" crack in it. Place pro out right as far as possible (1.5" cam) and start moving out and right where what was an overhang becomes a strange roof.
Stem back, drop knee, smear, undercling, and contort your way out of this while protecting on TCU's to reach the lip of the roof, where some key face holds appear as the crack disappears. Above the roof the climbing eases to 5.10a or perhaps less. This is a good thing because you will probably be massively pumped and can't set gear there.
The start of the route is a little dirty, but all in all it is fun! Finish on good holds to the ledge and rap from the good fixed anchor. This is hard to TR because there is a big swing potential from the crux. The route felt like 12- to me. Maybe I missed something or maybe it is that hard.