Type: Trad, Aid, 1000 ft, 9 pitches, Grade VI
FA: Dave Jones & Steve Chardon, Oct 1983
Page Views: 1,509 total · 17/month
Shared By: bsmoot on Nov 5, 2011
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures ***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

Climbs the beautiful Forbidden Wall up discontinuous, thin crack systems to the top. The first pitch was originally rated A5 because it had deck potential (pre beaks). The 3rd pitch climbs the striking hand crack located just right of a small corner. There is a bivy ledge at pitch 6. This route is consistently difficult with some route finding.

This was likely the first A5 in Zion at the time. Some rurps had to be equalized on the first pitch. Chip Chase made an early solo ascent of this route.

Location

Several hundred feet left of Forbidden corner. See topo at VC

Protection

Wall rack with extra thin gear.

Photos

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roxclamantis  
 
My guess is that unless the first pitch got retro-drilled (which I think happened on the second, failed, attempt) it likely remains A5. Exiting the crack (beaks at best) one has to commit to a hook move. If you blow out of that you will likely zipper at least half of the crack down to the solitary bolt.

Easily the most singular and sublime of all the walls in upper Zion canyon. The position is magnificent, and the climbing is continuously difficult. The only downside is the last two grunge pitches.

Several 'famous' climbers have backed off of this route. Dec 20, 2011