Type: Trad, Aid, 10 pitches, Grade V
FA: Barry Ward, Alan Humphrey
Page Views: 4,707 total · 30/month
Shared By: e Dixon on Apr 7, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures ***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

P1 (5.6) Right-angling ramp to bolted anchor.

P2 (C3) Climb steep red wall, left of the alcove to a hanging belay.

P3 (5.9 C2+) Continue up crack (C2+) to a bolt ladder that moves up and right to some bad hooks and a mantle move (5.9) that leads to belay ledge and bolted anchor.

P4 (C3) Start with a right-facing/angling corner (C2) that ends at more bad hooks heading left to another right-facing corner. Climb the corner using blown out pin scars (C3) and then move back right to the belay ledge and bolted anchor.

P5 (5.9 C1) Starts off with more bad hooks that lead to a left-angling crack (C1). Past the crack is a chimney (5.9) that ends before a cool roof (C1). Belay at ledge with bolted anchor.

This is a big sandy ledge and a place to bivy.

P6 (C2+) Follow right-facing corner to a fun OW. Belay at the ledge with bolted anchor.

P7 (C2+) Leave the ledge using hooks (C2+) that lead to a crack (C1+) that goes to the big ledge with bolted anchor.

P8, P9 (4th class) Horrible hauling to the top.

Topo

Protection

- (4-5) sets of offset brassies
- (3-4) sets of micro cams
- (1-2) sets of nuts
- (2) sets of Camalots #.5 - #3
- (1) #4 Camalot
- assorted hooks (Talon, Cliffhanger, etc...)

Location

Located on a large buttress right of Moonlight Buttress, across the canyon from Spaceshot. Cross the Virgin River near Space Shot and head towards concave, pink face on the buttress.

Higher up the wall becomes a pillar with two dihedrals.

Descent

Head southwest towards Moonlight Buttress to pick up the Angel's Landing trail.

Photos