All Locations > S Dakota > Custer SP > Sylvan Lake > Middle Earth > Far Downs

West of the Sun

Name: West of the Sun
Rating: 3.3

5.11- YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British

Routes in Far Downs

L › R R › L A › Z

	Bard S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Bard's Arrow T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Bard’s Bow String T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Black Arrow T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Left Wing of Smaug T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Of Quartz It Goes S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Orcrist T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Smaugs Tail T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
	West of the Sun T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c

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Type:	Trad, 100 ft (30 m), Grade V
FA:	Pete Delannoy, Paul Muehl,, and Everett Akam, June 26, 1988.
Page Views:	715 total · 12/month
Shared By:	Mark Orsag on Aug 4, 2019
Admins:	Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mikel Madsen, Mark Rafferty Page Updates (admin only)

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Explore this route in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Description

West of the Sun is an amazingly varied and memorable climb. Stands out even in an area (Middle Earth ) that has classic after classic. The route goes up a steep water chute with some pretty unique features. I remember thinking "wow" a few times. Stick clip bolt one. The crux start is a boulder problem on blackish rock to pull an overhang. Has a technichal set up and a punchy finish to pull the overhang. Goes left, right, or center-- each with its own unique challenge. Then work up past a flake. Bit runout to bolt 2, but it is a pretty easy crystal-speckled slab. After a couple of crack-climbing moves, one hits a slightly overhanging headwall feature with some weird slopey knobs. These interesting knobs appear amber-colored if the light hits them right. Smearing and compressioning the knobs brings you to another slab that steepens toward a physical grunty chimney that eases off eventually. Hike a brief gulley to one more slab move guarding the anchors in a notch. Packs a lot into 100 feet!

Location

Most people will access this climb by circling around the southwest end of the Far Downs Mass past the prominent 5.8- slab climb Bard. Follow the Far Downs Mass north and east. West of the Sun will be first climb you come too... Radbug also 5.11- is just a bit farther in.