Type: Sport, 450 ft (136 m), 5 pitches
FA: K. Ochsner, F. Meier, D. Cloth 2002
Page Views: 252 total · 12/month
Shared By: Tony Sartin on Jul 20, 2019
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, Jason Halladay

You & This Route


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Description

This climb is serious, difficult, and all around rad. The two 6c pitches (pitch 1 and 4) seemed to be the mental cruxes, sometimes making difficult and/or tenuous moves well above questionable bolts. The physical crux was on the second pitch, but at least the bolts, although corroded, were a little closer spaced. There is a fair amount of sharp rock on this route, especially as you get closer to the top. We had to leave behind new slings and hardware at the top of 5 and 3 to facilitate our rappel. The slings that were there were completely bleached and shredded. If you climb this, bring a few extra slings and large quick links or carabiners to update anchors. Maybe a blade as well to cut off old tat. We rapped 5 to 3, 3 to 1, and 1 to ground with one 80 meter rope. Be aware that 3 to 1 could leave you in space if you don’t kick out and keep a swing going for the bottom 50’ due to steepness.

Location

Approximately 60’ right of Crispy and 40’ left of the Calcite Cave. Starts just left of a large bush encroaching the wall to the right. The name is also written at the base in fairly large letters.

Protection

Plenty of bolts, but most of them are very corroded along with very corroded nuts. All hangers look good. Results of mixing metals in an area that sees water runoff and seepage. This route is super good and needs to be updated with new SS bolts or modern glue-ins. The belay at the top of the first pitch is solid, well designed, and free of corrosion. The rest of the belays have two bolts (some are questionable and/or rusted) but are not rigged for descent.

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