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Routes in Galatinani

Calcite Star S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Calcite Star Plus S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Crispy S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Feuerdorn S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Gegoune S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
K44 S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
La Perceuse A Dede S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Nymfi S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Zero Chichon S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Kaspar & Ruth & Michi Ochsner, 2003
Page Views: 335 total · 4/month
Shared By: Top Rope Hero on Oct 22, 2011
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, Jason Halladay

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Description

Ever wondered what it must have been like to paint the ceiling of the Sistine Chapel? Now you can find out by channeling your inner Michelangelo and giving "Feuerdorn" a go.

Take the surprisingly stiff, vert wall until you bonk your head. That's your cue to grow Velcro hands and prove to everyone that you really HAVE been working on that toe hooking. A graceless and frankly immodest groin clamp on the tufa chandelier might help facilitate clipping; but it's not going to do much for your social life.

Fair warning: The roof clips are not close. And cleaning on lead or on toprope, either, will test your threshold for imploding with frustration and hating everything.

Oh. And it's a complete sandbag for a "7a." Every move will feel like a heavy gravity day. Even belayers get worked on this one. Have fun!

Location

First climb on the left in the cave proper. If you would drown were god to pee on Galatiani, you're not far enough back into the cave. Keep moving up.

Protection

10-ish bolts to a 2-bolt/1-'biner anchor. A set of Nomics and some Petzl Darts would be nice.

Photos

Colin Brochard
Austin
  5.12a
Colin Brochard   Austin
  5.12a
found this thing to be stiff and a wee bit scary. I'd give it 12a 7a+ for sure. Jan 18, 2018

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