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Routes in Galatinani

Calcite Star S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Calcite Star Plus S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Crispy S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Feuerdorn S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Gegoune S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
K44 S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
La Perceuse A Dede S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Nymfi S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Zero Chichon S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Boris Girardin, Claude & Yves Remy, 2006
Page Views: 1,025 total, 14/month
Shared By: Top Rope Hero on Oct 22, 2011
Admins: WAGbag, Luke Bertelsen, Jason Halladay

You & This Route


7 Opinions

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Description

When they start making the sex robots, the moves on this one climb are what Thai designers will refer to when programming the "Khao San" happy finish. In fact this climb...this climb is why you endured 37 sleepless hours in transit in-between fat people and wailing children on Fred Airways.

Shake off that zombie jet lag, forget the fact that you out-stink the goat poo, and put on your cape: It's time to fly, people.

Launch up magnificent, mammoth cuts until you take the exit for crimptown. Look up and stretch/leap/teleport to that perfect plunging horse cock of a tufa, 37 miles above you. Never mind that the tip is wet. Grab it. Love it. Mount it. Clip. Then spend the next 20 meters pawing overhung jugs so big, so perfect that Pamela Anderson had them bronzed as inspiration for her next augmentation.

When you clip the anchors, squealing with joy, remember the hoard of lazy sport wankers at Arhi who sour graped the idea of trudging up to Galatiani because there just wasn't anything "good" up here. You and your noodle arms now know better.


Location

Left side of cave, on top of a blocky limestone pedestal. A small launching pad has been walled off, but it's probably easier/better to belay on the lazy-boy just where the path drops off.

Protection

Many draws. Much sack. Steel tendons.
Mr. Stevens
Boulder, CO
Mr. Stevens   Boulder, CO
This is the shittiest (literally) belay in Kalymnos. I think I'm just sour because my little T-Rex arms and short eskimo body couldn't figure out the crux, like, at all. Aug 1, 2017
Top Rope Hero
Was Estes Park, now homeless
 
Top Rope Hero   Was Estes Park, now homeless
 
(Sigh...)

How I miss Kalymnos... May 17, 2014
Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
  5.12b
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
  5.12b
What RyanO says!! Of eight days climbing on Kalymnos this trip, this is the standout. Just wow.

Also, this route description here is brilliant! Apr 22, 2014
RyanO
sunshine
 
RyanO   sunshine
 
THat.was.AMAZING!! Nov 3, 2013