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Routes in Galatinani

Calcite Star S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Calcite Star Plus S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Crispy S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Feuerdorn S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Gegoune S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
K44 S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
La Perceuse A Dede S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Nymfi S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Zero Chichon S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
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Type: Sport, 145 ft
FA: Laurent Triay, Geraud Fanguin, Arnaud Catzeflis, 2006
Page Views: 757 total · 9/month
Shared By: Top Rope Hero on Oct 22, 2011
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, Jason Halladay

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Description

"That's just good rock climbing."
. ~Matt Nance

(The following is as reported by Mr. Nance; this author is certainly not fool enough to bother groping around desperate on this monster testpiece.)

So, Zero Chichon. Don't do it unless you want permanent awe face. And unless you have the powers of all the great apes combined. This stunner runs up a short face section until you find yourself crawling into the darkness, into "the hole." Find your happy place, get on your feet, and get it AAAAALL back. Never mind the bats; you're about to become a freak monkey. Now down climb back out and wrench yourself out onto the sunny side. Perform heaps of magic, clipping along the way with a third arm. Then the climb overhangs even more and it is rock climbing up to the anchors. Sorry. COMPLETE BAD ASS ROCK CLIMBING to the anchors. Just. That. Simple. Fifteen stars.

Write me when you get out of the hospital.

Location

At the very back end of the cave; under "the hole." Goes up impossibly overhanging headwall above to an anchor in another zip code. Bring food and shelter.

Protection

Many, many draws. Enough to get pre-pumped, just clippin' them on. Some extra long ones wouldn't hurt, movin' up 'n' out of that hole.

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