Type: Sport, 145 ft
FA: Laurent Triay, Geraud Fanguin, Arnaud Catzeflis, 2006
Page Views: 786 total · 9/month
Shared By: Top Rope Hero on Oct 22, 2011
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, Jason Halladay

You & This Route


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Description

"That's just good rock climbing."
. ~Matt Nance

(The following is as reported by Mr. Nance; this author is certainly not fool enough to bother groping around desperate on this monster testpiece.)

So, Zero Chichon. Don't do it unless you want permanent awe face. And unless you have the powers of all the great apes combined. This stunner runs up a short face section until you find yourself crawling into the darkness, into "the hole." Find your happy place, get on your feet, and get it AAAAALL back. Never mind the bats; you're about to become a freak monkey. Now down climb back out and wrench yourself out onto the sunny side. Perform heaps of magic, clipping along the way with a third arm. Then the climb overhangs even more and it is rock climbing up to the anchors. Sorry. COMPLETE BAD ASS ROCK CLIMBING to the anchors. Just. That. Simple. Fifteen stars.

Write me when you get out of the hospital.

Location

At the very back end of the cave; under "the hole." Goes up impossibly overhanging headwall above to an anchor in another zip code. Bring food and shelter.

Protection

Many, many draws. Enough to get pre-pumped, just clippin' them on. Some extra long ones wouldn't hurt, movin' up 'n' out of that hole.

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