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Routes in Cliffs of Insanity
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Arizona Bay S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Bolt Em All S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Dirty Thieving Bastards S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Fashion Sense S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Fesic S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Fireworks in February S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Krusty Panties T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Little Sprout S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Man in Black, The S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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One Piece at a Time T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Ramp Up the Insanity T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c |
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Ropebelt T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Rubber Chicken S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Shanghai Summers S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Sphagnum Esplanade S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Swamp Rat S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Sport, 95 ft (29 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Jason Roy |
| Page Views: | 2,532 total · 34/month |
| Shared By: | Mark Orsag on Apr 18, 2019 · Updates |
| Admins: | Tyler KC, JD Borgeson |
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Description
This route has been set up as a multipitch. It could also easily be done as a single pitch with a couple of longish runners (which would make it the longest pitch at HCR). I will describe the two pitch variation here.
P1. 50 feet -- 5 bolts (5.8) This pitch has a crux low and one higher up that are quite different. One comes on a mostly easy slabby section (where for at least shorter climbers) the holds seem to vanish for a move. Work right and smear or high step your way through. Casual terrain then leads to a short overhanging diheadral which turns out to be easier than it initially looks. Arrive soon after at the great midway anchor ledge.
P2. 45 feet-- 4 bolts (5.9-). The second pitch is generally pretty easy climbing, but a short much steeper section of orange rock off to the left, which is not currently bolted as well as the rest of the route (possibly to prevent rope drag on a single pitch variant), clocks in harder and more bouldery. Another section of only slightly less steep 5.8 grayish rock above follows but is better protected. Then easy to the top after the previous multicolored/combined sort of headwall feature is climbed. Guidebook rates this 2nd pitch 5.8 as well, but the consensus from the Ranch staff seemed to be 5.9. I interpolated on the high side due to that one section definitely verging on PG13.
P1. 50 feet -- 5 bolts (5.8) This pitch has a crux low and one higher up that are quite different. One comes on a mostly easy slabby section (where for at least shorter climbers) the holds seem to vanish for a move. Work right and smear or high step your way through. Casual terrain then leads to a short overhanging diheadral which turns out to be easier than it initially looks. Arrive soon after at the great midway anchor ledge.
P2. 45 feet-- 4 bolts (5.9-). The second pitch is generally pretty easy climbing, but a short much steeper section of orange rock off to the left, which is not currently bolted as well as the rest of the route (possibly to prevent rope drag on a single pitch variant), clocks in harder and more bouldery. Another section of only slightly less steep 5.8 grayish rock above follows but is better protected. Then easy to the top after the previous multicolored/combined sort of headwall feature is climbed. Guidebook rates this 2nd pitch 5.8 as well, but the consensus from the Ranch staff seemed to be 5.9. I interpolated on the high side due to that one section definitely verging on PG13.
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