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Routes in Cliffs of Insanity

Arizona Bay S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dirty Thieving Bastards S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fashion Sense S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Fesic S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Fireworks in February S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Little Sprout S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Man in Black, The S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
One Piece at a Time T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rubber Chicken S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sphagnum Esplanade S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Swamp Rat S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 75 ft
FA: Jason Roy 02/2010
Page Views: 615 total, 8/month
Shared By: Carol Fittell on Apr 20, 2011
Admins: TylerKC

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Description

Half jug fest, half low-angled scramble to a large ledge. Don't let the rope drag pull you down.

Location

The farthest left route of the newly developed section of the cliff; around the corner & to the right of Fashion Sense. Just a few feet off the trail heading towards the Far East.

Protection

9 bolts to 2 bolt anchor. Rappel, or have your rope eaten by rope drag.

Photos

Mark Orsag
Omaha, NE
  5.8
Mark Orsag   Omaha, NE
  5.8
This has been set up as a two-pitch climb. You can do both or just do the longer 70 foot first pitch and be done (set a long runner for the anchor or rappel). If you try to do it as one long pitch, you would probably get the rope drag as well. Thought this had some very fun movement, particularly on the first longer pitch. Mar 10, 2017
Michael A Parker
Tulsa, OK
  5.8
Michael A Parker   Tulsa, OK
  5.8
I only saw 2 sets of anchors on this route. I climbed up to the first set and clipped a long runner to the anchor to help with rope drag and then continued up to a 2nd set which were at the top of the wall. I really enjoyed the diversity of climbing on this single route. Oct 17, 2016
Hendrixson
Tucson, AZ
  5.8
Hendrixson   Tucson, AZ
  5.8
I believe this route has been extended. There are now three sets of anchors. The lowest anchors come after the hardest and best climbing. The second set are slightly higher but too recessed and likely the reason folks have complained of rope drag. The third and final set comes after an additional three or so bolts. The climbing is less than vertical and on slightly mossy terrain. This section adds length but not much else. Jun 2, 2015