Type: Boulder, 8 ft
FA: Miles Galloway?
Page Views: 116 total · 21/month
Shared By: Brad Fauteux on Dec 31, 2018
Admins: BDalhaus, J Beta, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

A fun party trick dyno into the classic V1 "Sneaker Problem". This variation to the problem uses the pedestal far out left due to lack of feet on the actual boulder.
Sit start and reach high to a sloping left-hand pinch above the roof of the boulder, and grab a bad right-hand opposing crimp under the roof. Figure out where you want your feet on the block and execute a hard unwind dyno to the jug slot up and right. Core up and squeeze the left-hand and try to avoid dabbing the rock out right. From here match hands and do a v1 deadpoint to the lip before rocking over ta heel or a toe for the topout.

This is one of the best dynos I have done in the park and is a worthy addition. Initially, I was trying it without the pedestal, but generating momentum is extremely difficult, and it is much more enjoyable to use the jug foot.

Location

Park at Round Pond and cross the stream/ river. This is the first boulder you will see. It has an obvious horizontal break in the middle of the face where "The Sneaker Problem" starts.

Protection

3 pads.

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