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Routes in Hillside (aka Summit Boulder Area)

A Boy And His Dog V3+ 6A+
A River Runs Through It V3 6A
Beavers Attack From Above V0 4
Black Fly TR 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Bloody Bath Water V7-8 7B
Blue Skied Moon V7-8 7B
Boulder-Rama T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Brother John V3 6A
Butt Slap V2 5+
Cast Away V2+ 5+
Center Chimney T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Comrad V5 6C
Cough Syrup V8 7B
Drive By V0+ 4+
EZ's Problem V5 6C
Ethnic Cleansing V6-7 7A+
Ethnic Cleansing Sit V8-9 7B+
Fido V5 6C
Fido Low V6- 7A
Flower Child V5 6C
Flower Power V3 6A
Flower Traverse V2 5+
Free Base T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Ghetto Knowledge V8-9 7B+
Gums (aka Timex) V3-4 6A+
Inside Corner TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c V2 5+
Italian Stallion V7 7A+
Jinx V3-4 6A+
John's Problem V4 6B
Josh's Dilemna V1 5
Left Chimney TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Locomotive Breath T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mantlepiece V1 5
Mayonnaise V6 7A
Miracle Whip V5 6C
Motherf***er V6 7A
Near Life V2 5+
Obstacle Crack T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Outside Corner T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b V1 5
Pit, The V8-9 7B+ PG13
Professor Booty V9 7C
Right Chimney T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
River Project, The V10-11 8A
Roadside Chimney T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Rusty Mustad V0 4
Sally V0 4
Sally Sat Down V4 6B
Sand Wedge V3 6A
Seeing Red V3 6A
Sneaker Problem V1 5
Snicker V4 6B
Snicker-Doodle V8 7B
Tabasco T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Under The Box V2 5+
Welcome to the Fold V5 6C
With Confidence V2 5+
Type: Boulder, 15 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,025 total · 8/month
Shared By: BDalhaus on Feb 14, 2008
Admins: BDalhaus, Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall, Jonathan Steitzer

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Description

Climbs the left side of the tall face. Stand start on a diagonal crimp at about head height. Use small feet and deadpoint up and right to a small crimp, and then up into easier climbing.

Usually dry, but rarely climbed.

Location

Just left of Italian Stallion

Protection

Pad

Photos

Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
  V9
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
  V9
Bryce, what's with the one star???

This climb gets almost no attention, but I think it's amazingly good and deserving of standing next to 'Italian Stallion'. Technical and powerful. Max extension deadpoints off of small holds. Highball. Full value in every possible way.

There are a couple of different ways to start this problem. You can start matched on the diagonal crimp at 7-8 feet. Or start with left hand on the diagonal crimp and the right hand using a mono on the face to the right. I've done it both ways and the difficulty feels the same. I prefer the mono method because it's such a cool hold that it's almost a crime not to use it! Figure out a way to latch the lone crimp on the face and then make another huge deadpoint to an incut edge above. Move to juggy sidepulls above and finish up the tall face as for 'Italian Stallion'.

This is an extremely reach dependent problem. For me, it felt like hard v8/low end v9 since I was at my absolute reach limit for both deadpoints. For taller folks, it might feel a bit easier. For shorter folks, it might very well be impossible. Or many grades harder.

No matter what, it's an amazing climb worthy of traffic and praise. Oct 26, 2014

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