Type: Boulder, 20 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 638 total · 10/month
Shared By: BDalhaus on Nov 23, 2013
Admins: BDalhaus, Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


12 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

A techy & pumpy traverse topped off with a tricky finish to conquer the boulder. Good beta works wonders. This is the full line linking Mayonnaise into Miracle Whip. Sit start on the right in the crack, crimp your way left to gain the jug in the middle of the face, then follow edges up and left to the sloping topout of Shell n Dough. Roughly 17 hand movements and fun the whole way.

vimeo.com/80739597

Location

On the North Marsh end of Tin Can Alley (3 Chimney Area), this short face is easily seen on the left if walking towards Round Pond, or on the right if walking towards the marsh.

Protection

Multiple pads or someone to move them as you go...

Photos

- No Photos -
BDalhaus
Bangor, ME
  V8
BDalhaus   Bangor, ME  
  V8
Felt on par with Downward Spiral V8 for difficulty & harder than any V7 I've touched this season. Anyone else care to send and share? Nov 23, 2013
Andrew Nelligan
Henniker, NH
  V8
Andrew Nelligan   Henniker, NH
  V8
Really fun, pumpy problem. First half is totally different from the second. Broke some feet near the start (in the crack with the wiggly block) and on on face for Miracle Whip during the process of working this problem but it seems relatively solid now. Definitely worth getting on. Apr 30, 2015
Ian McAfee
Concord, NH
 
Ian McAfee   Concord, NH
 
I don't know if I would call this v8, though Miracle Whip felt much easier than v5 to me, and my beta is much different than your video Bryce(which looks incredibly hard and I don't think I could do). After mayonnaise I got the left crimp after the knob with my left, right heel hook on the Sally jug, and crossed to that higher crimp/rail. I did Miracle Whip two ways, one way being straight up after that, and the second was grabbing a left hand side pull, taking a big swing, and slapping slopers continuing all the way around the left side of the boulder. Fun problem whatever it is! Nov 15, 2015