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California
> Lake Tahoe
> I-80 Corridor
> Bowman/Emeralds
> Bowman Valley
> Candy Land
Dory
5.6 YDS 4c French 14 Ewbanks V UIAA 12 ZA S 4b British
Avg: 3 from 2
votes
Routes in Candy Land
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Candy Corn S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Candy Land S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Candy Man S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Cosmic Followers S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Dory S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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More Nemo S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Nemo S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Rock n Rolla S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Sugar Rush S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Sport, 70 ft (21 m) |
| FA: | Mourad and Tuttle 11/18 |
| Page Views: | 1,685 total · 24/month |
| Shared By: | Harumpfster Boondoggle on Nov 21, 2018 |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Lurk Er, Ky Bishop, Colby Wangler, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Description
This alternate pitch starts from the "More Nemo" mid anchors at Block Ledge and heads up and right up a beautiful slab. Cryptic sequences for the grade and lots of footwork on beautiful Bowman stone make this a worthy pitch. Sport bolted 5.6....Much Gnar! Sick Send! :D
1. Follow approach pitch 5.6 mantle above Candy Land/Nemo to the bolted anchor of "More Nemo" on the Block ledge. 4 bolts. If you take 10 draws you can link this with Nemo from the ground for one longer ~120' pitch.
2. Up and right (70', 6 bolts) to a bolted anchor with chains. 5.6 but more sustained and technical than "More Nemo".
Descent: 70' rappel to "More Nemo" anchor on Block Ledge. 100' rappel to base of Candy Land. One 60M rope barely reaches, be careful. If required (ie rain) you can scramble over the top and follow the gully 3rd class down (north) towards The Fun House or the base of the Gum Drop.
1. Follow approach pitch 5.6 mantle above Candy Land/Nemo to the bolted anchor of "More Nemo" on the Block ledge. 4 bolts. If you take 10 draws you can link this with Nemo from the ground for one longer ~120' pitch.
2. Up and right (70', 6 bolts) to a bolted anchor with chains. 5.6 but more sustained and technical than "More Nemo".
Descent: 70' rappel to "More Nemo" anchor on Block Ledge. 100' rappel to base of Candy Land. One 60M rope barely reaches, be careful. If required (ie rain) you can scramble over the top and follow the gully 3rd class down (north) towards The Fun House or the base of the Gum Drop.
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