Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Mourad and Tuttle 11/18
Page Views: 561 total · 50/month
Shared By: Harumpfster Boondoggle on Nov 21, 2018
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

This alternate pitch starts from the "More Nemo" mid anchors at Block Ledge and heads up and right up a beautiful slab. Cryptic sequences for the grade and lots of footwork on beautiful Bowman stone make this a worthy pitch. Sport bolted 5.6....Much Gnar! Sick Send! :D

1. Follow approach pitch 5.6 mantle above Candy Land/Nemo to the bolted anchor of "More Nemo" on the Block ledge. 4 bolts. If you take 10 draws you can link this with Nemo from the ground for one longer ~120' pitch.

2. Up and right (70', 6 bolts) to a bolted anchor with chains. 5.6 but more sustained and technical than "More Nemo".

Descent: 70' rappel to "More Nemo" anchor on Block Ledge. 100' rappel to base of Candy Land. One 60M rope barely reaches, be careful. If required (ie rain) you can scramble over the top and follow the gully 3rd class down (north) towards The Fun House or the base of the Gum Drop.

Location

After reaching the "Block Ledge" bolted anchor of More Nemo this alternate pitch of Dory goes up and right where More Nemo goes up and left.

Protection

6 bolts to a bolted anchor with chains.

Photos